Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Dry Pressed Eyeshadows

  • Dry Pressed Eyeshadows

    Posted by Anonymous on March 12, 2019 at 9:34 pm

    I’m a bit confused as to why my eyeshadows dry out after pressing, but are fine as a loose formula. This is my base formula:

    Kaolin Clay 75%
    MM Sericite 3%
    Nylon 12 2%
    Titanium Oxide (oil dispersable) 8%
    HP1 Z-Cote 4%
    Jojoba oil 2%
    Dimethicone 350 5%
    Preservative 1% 

    I used 1 part base to 5 parts pigment (lake dye). Then added approximately 0.1mL glycerine and added 91% rubbing alcohol until it was a wet but firm consistency where I could form the eyeshadow into a firm ball. At this point I pressed with paper towel and left to dry. 

    I can’t figure out what is causing my pressed shadow to be so much drier and chalkier than the loose formula. Thanks for any help. 

    Sponge replied 5 years, 3 months ago 1 Member · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Sponge

    March 22, 2019 at 11:23 pm

    You follow the same formula for loose/pressed or do you add glycerin when pressing?

    Kaolin (I’m sure you know) has an incredible capacity for binding both water and oil. I’m wondering if the alcohol displaced the oil/glycerin from the surface and drove it into the kaolin to a more even distribution? Hopefully somone will correct me. 

    What makes you say it dries out? A pressed swatch versus a loose swatch feels different? Pressed powders don’t yield as much as loose if you’re casually picking some up with a finger or brush. 

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