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Does a cationic polymer in shampoo inhibit lipid absorption from a conditioner?
Hi Friends,
Working on a shampoo and conditioner (separate products, not a 2-in-1) and based on the discussions here I feel like I need to add Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride to the shampoo to give it a little more glide (no silicones allowed, but open to other suggestions). Adding it strictly for sensorials - I know shampoo is meant to clean the hair so if I could keep it out I would, but without it the hair just seems thick/heavy/non-slippy and pulls a bit too much when running fingers through it during/after rinse off.My main question is - if Guar HPTC has coated the hair during the shampoo stage, will this coating negatively affect how well the hair absorbs the lipids/fatty acids that are present in the conditioner?
FYI the conditioner also contains Guar HPTC, but I’m wondering if the coating that is already there when the conditioner is applied will prevent the lipids/fatty acids from penetrating into the hair shaft, or do they have the ability to absorb through the polymer coating? Feel free to also point out any gaps in my understanding of the actual chemistry happening here…
Also FYI in case it makes a difference I’m using combo of caprylic/capric triglycerides, phospholipids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids as my conditioning elements.
Thanks everyone!
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4 Replies
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Guar HPTC does not build and does not coat a continuous film like many of the cationic cellulosics do so you are OK. I will add that phospholipids are anionic (opposite charge) so not the best choice of “lipid” conditioner in this. Why not use plain oleic triglycerides, i.e. olive oil, instead?
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Thank you @chemicalmatt! This is great info. Now you’ve got me wondering if the phospholipids (I’m using lecithin powder) are fighting with my cationics!
When you say “not the best choice” do you mean those two together are “ok but not ideal” or “they are wrecking your whole formula and you should absolutely not put them together”? I don’t know the exact degree of modification on the Guar HPTC, in case that makes a difference, but both of these elements are key players in the formula.
I was hoping to get most of the lipids from the triglycerides, so I’m not tied to the phospholipids as conditioning elements - they are there mostly as an emulsifier. I just thought I should mention them as something that might affect how the question was answered - which I knew would probably happen! I’m also pretty limited on the ingredients I can use, but if you’ve got any other suggestions for powdered emulsifiers that can go in a conditioner I’m all ears!
Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
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I meant do not use lecithin or any phospholipid in the same formulation as a cationic of any sort, it will destabilize your product. You are correct in sensing a fight going on. Oil load should be limited to TG’s and esters, dimethicones or good ‘ol mineral oil.
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Got it! Thanks again @chemicalmatt. I’ll stick with TG’s like you’re suggesting. Gonna look for a replacement for the lecithin and go from there.
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