Do you avoid the dirty dozen?Posted by oldperry on July 8, 2014 at 4:56 pm
Here is an interesting article from Paula’s Choice about fearmongering and ingredients in cosmetics. I’m curious how many formulators on this forum are avoiding certain ingredients because of unfounded fears of chemicals.Anyone?
MemberJuly 9, 2014 at 12:13 am
Our marketing department did a google search to find the top ten baddies and based the ‘free from’ claims based on this list. I now have to formulate around these claims.
MemberJuly 9, 2014 at 4:22 am
coal tar has been banned from cosmetics in Europe since 1999, as it’s a class 1 carcinogen (i.e. there is substantiated, relevant in-vivo data indicating its carcinogenicity); you can only use it in over-the-counter pharmaceuticals, and only if you have data to prove that it’s safe for use in that particular application
most phthalates bar DMP and DEP have been banned as well, as they are class 1 reprotoxins
as far as personal preference goes, I tend not to use triclosan because salicylic acid is more effective in liquid soaps, and CPC is more effective in oral care
apart from that, I have no issues with the others; any “x free” statements on our products are there because they’ve been requested by the customer
MemberJuly 9, 2014 at 4:16 pm
I never thought the “sulfate-free” trend would get farther than use in color-retention shampoos, for which they are actually preferred; yet there it is. Plenty of customers are now asking for sulfate-free cleansers, even laundry detergents!. Same for parabens: a shame the perception has gotton this far advanced, and we are forced to use less effective anti-fungal preservatives. As for triclosan - no problem and good riddance. p-chloro-m-xylenol was - and still is - just as effective a microbiocide, when coupled with phenoxyethanol, as triclosan, only at half the price. It is accepted as a preservative globally and works at any pH. Sure it has odor issues, but that is easily overcome. I seem to recall triclosan’s original appeal was it didn’t impart a medicinal odor like PCMX, and had better solubility in water. Big deal.
MemberJuly 10, 2014 at 5:50 am
I use Dimethicone at times. Does anyone know any better non-dirty alternatives for use in o/w emulsions?
MemberJuly 10, 2014 at 1:55 pm
I have to say I personally like the sulfate-free trend. Of course everything it too relative, but in general these amino acids based surfactants, specially the ones from Ajinomoto, leave the skin with a very comfortable feel after the cleansing process. And they foam up very beautifully.
AnonymousGuestSeptember 11, 2014 at 6:06 pm
Actually for naturally curly hair, sulfate free shampoo does make the hair nicer.
MemberOctober 19, 2014 at 5:44 pm
I hate the internet scare mongerers too often they are journalists or bloggers basing their “expert” opinion on bad science and internet research. Until there is some real scientific data to suggest they are harmful to human health and they are prohibited by the EU cosmectic regulation I would be happy to use any of the dirty dozen (except coal tar, phthalates and the banned parabens obviously). I am surprised to see the thiazolinones didn’t make the dirty dozen yet mineral oil, the primary ingredient in most baby oils, did.
MemberOctober 19, 2014 at 6:07 pm
Sulphate free usually means salt free, too, since salt doesn’t thicken these surfactants. It’s far easier to make multipurpose (conditioning) versions since cationic compounds play well with amphoteric surfactants. Yes they are a lot more expensive to make, because the surfactants cost more and the thickener is expensive.My own range of sulphate-free shampoo is based on Kao’s surfactants. I really like them.Is anyone else here using Kao Chemicals surfactants?
MemberOctober 19, 2014 at 7:29 pmObviously there is a significant amount of fear mongering and green washing happening, it seems a lot of it is coming from cosmetic companies themselves in their marketing departments, in addition to lazy journalists and blog-activists. What’s a consumer layman to do or believe?
Here is what the FDA currently has to say to the public about Triclosan:
What is known about the safety of triclosan?
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