Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Discoloration Problem

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  • Discoloration Problem

    Posted by gmicca on December 4, 2019 at 1:16 am

    Hi everyone,

    I need your insights on this. I have been developing several products and all of them discolored at 40C/50C. The pH did not change. Here are the common ingredients I put:

    Line 1
    Betaine
    Sake Extract
    Galactomyces Ferment FIltrate
    Alpha-Arbutin
    Niacinamide
    Aloe Vera Extract

    Line 2
    Betaine
    Apple Cider Vinegar (Bragg’s)
    Witch Hazel Distilled Extract
    Acnebusters
    Tea Tree Extract

    Line 3
    Betaine
    Centella Asiatica
    Aurafirm N
    Sodium Hyaluronate
    Aloe Vera Extract

    All formats, from toner to cream discolored. I am trying adding BHT on creams. But how do I add it on water-based formula without using alcohol? I have also tried creating several batches with only one active in it, but none discolored so I am thinking it must be a reaction between the actives. The perfume and preservatives I used does not discolor, I also tested it. I appreciate your comments on this. Thank you!

    bil7 replied 4 years, 6 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
  • 12 Replies
  • RawMaterialGirl

    Member
    December 5, 2019 at 4:50 am

    It’s the betaine - it’s a tertiary amine and is prone to discoloration. 

  • gmicca

    Member
    December 7, 2019 at 12:58 am

    It’s the betaine - it’s a tertiary amine and is prone to discoloration. 

    I have used betaine before and I didn’t have a problem with it. Do you think it reacts with another raw material I used?

  • gmicca

    Member
    December 10, 2019 at 1:35 am

    UPDATE:
    I tried adding BHT in lotion at 0.1% and there is still a bit of discoloration happened (turned light yellowish). Here is the full ingredients of the lotion:

    Water 79.7
    Glycerin 2.0
    Betaine 2.0
    Emulgade SE PF 4.0
    Cetyl Alcohol 1.0
    Cocoglycerides 3.0
    Dimethicone 100cst 3.0
    SFE 839 1.0
    BHT 0.1
    Avocado Oil 0.25
    Grapeseed Oil 0.25
    Sepimax Zen 0.35

    Kombucha Extract 0.1
    Centella Asiatica Extract 0.25
    Aurafirm N 0.10
    Sodium Hyaluronate 0.20
    euxyl k903 0.80
    Fragrance 0.40
    Triethanolamine 0.20

    Hoping someone can help me. Thanks!

  • EVchem

    Member
    December 10, 2019 at 3:10 pm

    A knockout test will be your best bet. I see you mentioned making the batch with only one of the actives but try the opposite where you only remove one ingredient (maybe start with that betaine just to see). I would also try leaving out the fragrance on a different sample. How fast are you seeing this discoloration?

    Also I did find SFE839 through google but you might get more help if you put INCI names where possible.

  • gmicca

    Member
    December 11, 2019 at 5:48 am

    Thank you @EVchem, I will try knock out batches again. Now I am suspecting the preservative Euxyl K903. SFE 839 INCI is [Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer]. In one of my formulations, discoloration happens in just 1 day at 50C. 

     

  • khoikhoa

    Member
    December 11, 2019 at 6:45 am

    I will add vitamin E as antioxidant for some oils you are using

  • gmicca

    Member
    December 11, 2019 at 8:41 am

    khoikhoa said:

    I will add vitamin E as antioxidant for some oils you are using

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it there. I added 0.2% Tocopherol

  • Doreen

    Member
    December 15, 2019 at 3:59 pm

    gmicca said:

    khoikhoa said:

    I will add vitamin E as antioxidant for some oils you are using

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it there. I added 0.2% Tocopherol

    I’ve heard combining BHT and tocopherol in one formula at a certain level can cause discoloration, but I have no idea if that’s true, since I never combine those.

  • bil7

    Member
    December 15, 2019 at 5:08 pm

    I also make bht plus tocopherol plus also d panthenol some serum its same problem with discoloration but then i add litte SMBS and problems solve try out sodium metabisulfite 

  • gmicca

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 4:04 am

    bil7 said:

    I also make bht plus tocopherol plus also d panthenol some serum its same problem with discoloration but then i add litte SMBS and problems solve try out sodium metabisulfite 

    Yup. I tried that, and it seems to be working. Hopefully, it’s the answer to my problems. thank you!

  • bil7

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 6:41 am

    Only add smbs at 0.1 percent not more than that 

  • bil7

    Member
    December 16, 2019 at 6:43 am

    Doreen said:

    gmicca said:

    khoikhoa said:

    I will add vitamin E as antioxidant for some oils you are using

    Oh yeah, I forgot to mention it there. I added 0.2% Tocopherol

    I’ve heard combining BHT and tocopherol in one formula at a certain level can cause discoloration, but I have no idea if that’s true, since I never combine those.

    No issue at all i am making lactic acid serum and vitam e at 2 percent not discoloration problem

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