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Dermosoft 700B? How to use it?
I thought Dermosoft 700B was a preservative booster. Now Im a bit confused. I was told its a wetting agent. Ive have searched for what that means exactly but everything refers to surfactants in cleaning agents? So is this a preservative booster? And How would I utilize it in a formula? INCI: Levulinic Acid, Sodium Levulinate, Glycerin; Aqua
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5 Replies
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It’s a preservative strong against bacteria. It should be used at lower pH (4.5-5.5). See manufacturers info.It’s best combined with a surface active ingredient (a booster, not a real surfactant) to unleash its full power. It’s commonly combined with anisic acid or sodium anisate resulting in a blend strong not only against bacteria but also against yeasts and mounds.The nice thing with levulinic acid is that it may be labelled as fragrance
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As far as I know, a wetting agent helps coat pigments to be mixed into products for better color dispersion.
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@Pharma I read the Evonik info and unfortunately there was just not enough info for me to understand. The information I accessed from the site was much more generic the the page that was brought up in your link. I actually have an account with them so I can access a a dif portal. I wish they had a market presentation like they do on many of their other products. Now if i was marketing a product as “fragrance free” do you think i would encounter issues with labeling it as a fragrance though? fragrance and skincare dont NOT mix for me unfortunately.
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You’re free to label it as fragrance (although ethyl levulinate is more often used as fragrance with a stronger and very different aroma) or as preservative. In cosmetics, it is usual used as a preservative (it has faint buttery, caramelly, slightly acrid flavour).There is not too much to market with it. It’s just a preservative derived from natural resources (nowadays lignocellulose). Levulinic acid is a VERY old compound compared to other cosmetic ingredients and it is a widely used intermediate in organic chemistry. So, it’s not new, it’s not better, it’s as safe as most others, it’s not a known allergen (likely because it’s not used widely and not for a very long time -> that’s the main reason for allergies and intolerance of most currently used ‘bad’ preservatives), it’s not broad spectrum but comparatively good against bacteria… that’s not too much food for marketers except for the ‘natural’ and fragrance claims. That and the complementary antimicrobial spectrum are the reason why it is often combined with anisic acid and/or sodium anisate.I have Dermosoft 1388 eco in stock and plan to use it instead of for example benzoate/sorbate… I hope it meets the expectations I have from it. For now, I will stick with dosage recommendations and will combine it with hurdle technology. The latter includes wetting agents: Here, the term refers to amphiphilic compounds with too short fatty acid chains to function as emulsifiers/surfactants but which ‘wet’ microbial surfaces and allow for better transmembrane penetration of preservatives such as levulinate/anisate.
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@pharma very interesting. I cant pretend to comprehend everything you just told me but I think I got the gist. I swear if I had known I could mix science and cosmetics in high school I would have been a better student haha
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