Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cyclomethicone in a night cream?

  • Cyclomethicone in a night cream?

    Posted by Graillotion on March 29, 2021 at 7:59 pm

    Mainly asking this from a sensory perspective…  When I made my day cream, I felt like the addition of cyclomethicone was finishing touch that made it perfect.

    Night creams are in my understanding… thicker, more dense, a richer feel.  That being said….is there a place for cyclomethicone in night creams (and I am talking a 1% inclusion)?  Or is that addition defeating the purpose?  I am already using a number of high end emollients, so not needing it to assist in that area.

    Pattsi replied 3 years, 1 month ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • Pattsi

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 4:25 pm

    Clinique used to have cyclomethicone in their old repairwear night cream but the new one doesn’t have it.

    Night creams are in my understanding… thicker, more dense, a richer feel.  

    Depends on your market - Korean brands tend to keep it very lightweight but have to be dewy for some period of time. 

    some use it

    i.e. 100+ USD night cream - Which brand? Yeah that brand.
    Aqua/water/eau, glycerin, propanediol, squalane, cyclopentasiloxane, triethylhexanoin, panax ginseng root extract, origanum majorana leaf extract, ziziphus jujuba fruit extract, thymus serpyllum extract, royal jelly extract, stearyl glycyrrhetinate, camellia sinensis leaf extract, algae extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, oryza sativa (rice) germ oil, camellia japonica seed oil, sericin, inositol, glyceryl stearate se, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, ppg-5-ceteth-10 phosphate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, sorbitan stearate, trideceth-12, ethylhexylglycerin, peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, butylene glycol, behenyl alcohol, parfum/fragrance, alcohol, phenoxyethanol

    Laneige
    Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Cyclohexasiloxane, Trehalose, Sodium Hyaluronate, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Root Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Fruit Extract, Beta-Glucan, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Magnesium Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Alginate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearyl Behenate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance, Blue 1 (Ci 42090).

    Huxley Fresh
    Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Water Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Cyclohexasiloxane, Trisiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3), Phyllostachis Bambusoides Juice, Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Acorus Gramineus Root/Stem Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Dimethiconol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Propanediol, PEG-40 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Stearic Acid, Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 80, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Fragrance.

    Huxley have thicker and richer texture too.

    and Huxley sleep mask
     OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA STEM EXTRACT, GLYCERIN, BUTYLENEGLYCOL, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CYCLOHEXASILOXANE, TREHALOSE, AQUA/WATER/EAU, 1.2-HEXANEDIOL, OPUNTIA FICUS-INDICA SEED OIL, CERAMIDE NP(CERAMIDE 3), SODIUM HYALURONATE, BETA-GLUCAN, CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF EXTRACT, PERILLA OCYMOIDES LEAF EXTRACT, PAEONIA SUFFRUTICOSA ROOT EXTRACT, SALVIA OFFICINALIS (SAGE) LEAF EXTRACT, CITRUS GRANDIS (GRAPEFRUIT) SEED EXTRACT, ACORUS GRAMINEUS ROOT/STEAM EXTRACT, PERILLA FRUTESCENS LEAF EXTRACT, THEOBROMA CACAO (COCOA) EXTRACT, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN, AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYTAURATE/VP COPOLYMER, POLYSORBATE 20, DIMETHICONE, DIMETHICONOL, CARBOMER, DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, PROPANEDIOL, ETHYLHEXYGLYCERIN, ALCOHOL, DEXTRIN, CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, CETYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, POLYSORBATE 80, TROMETHAMINE, DISODIUM EDTA, PHENOXYETHANOL, PARFUM/FRAGRANCE, BENZYL SALICYLATE, HEXYL CINNAMAL, CITRONELLOL.

    If I remember correctly, you have an in-house influencer right? She definitely have more insight than me.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 5:32 pm

    You have to understand that terms like Night Cream and Day Cream are marketing terms. There is no scientific definition. It’s just defined by what people expect. 

    Cyclomethicone is added to ingredients to get the benefits of silicone (shine, slickness, smoothness) without the downside of building up on hair. In skin products it can make the product feel lighter than say a dimethicone I suppose but it takes enough time that you might not notice that over time.

    I doubt you would see much benefit if you’re already using high end emollients.

  • Pharma

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 6:16 pm

    At a such low inclusion rate, maybe the one point to consider, apart from an at best mild effect on spreading and finishing touch, is reduced soaping ;) .

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 7:08 pm

    Pharma said:

    At a such low inclusion rate, maybe the one point to consider, apart from an at best mild effect on spreading and finishing touch, is reduced soaping ;) .

    Soaping…hehehe…I have almost forgotten what that is.
    I have found at 1%…the results were pretty dramatic.  But you know how I am.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 7:11 pm

    Perry said:

    I doubt you would see much benefit if you’re already using high end emollients.

    Agreed….no benefits….just changes the sensory package.

  • Graillotion

    Member
    March 30, 2021 at 7:29 pm

    Pattsi said:

    Clinique used to have cyclomethicone in their old repairwear night cream but the new one doesn’t have it.

    Night creams are in my understanding… thicker, more dense, a richer feel.  

    Depends on your market - Korean brands tend to keep it very lightweight but have to be dewy for some period of time. 

    some use it

    If I remember correctly, you have an in-house influencer right? She definitely have more insight than me.

    Wow….some of those formulas have quite a bit, all though…I suppose that could be near the 1% line on some of those formulas.  They do not use the liberal amounts of Isoamyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, and Coco-Caprylate/Caprate that I am using.

    My latest versions have a blend of Mont 202 and L (for lightness) and Mont 68 for richness.  So I have the exact viscosity (very much towards lite, yet strangely rich) I want, and with the addition of Hydrogenated polyisobutene, certainly got the dew level at a point that will satisfy any Korean, including the in house tester.  (Everything I make…has a touch of Aristoflex, and Carbomer, …that is just a given…when I discuss emulsifiers.)

    Pharma is having me push the level on the barrier, so also added some calendula wax (below 1%), and that has been a really nice addition.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    March 31, 2021 at 1:39 am

    Perry said:

    You have to understand that terms like Night Cream and Day Cream are marketing terms. There is no scientific definition. It’s just defined by what people expect. 

    Cyclomethicone is added to ingredients to get the benefits of silicone (shine, slickness, smoothness) without the downside of building up on hair. In skin products it can make the product feel lighter than say a dimethicone I suppose but it takes enough time that you might not notice that over time.

    I doubt you would see much benefit if you’re already using high end emollients.

    When it doesn’t stay in hair like dimethicone does, will it’s effects like shine, slickness, smoothness remain there when all Cyclomethicone has evaporated? 

  • OldPerry

    Member
    March 31, 2021 at 5:14 pm

    @Abdullah - No. But the idea is that you temporarily get those benefits because you mostly need them when you are styling the hair. Then over time, the silicone evaporates off your hair so it won’t build up.

  • jandro1116

    Member
    March 31, 2021 at 8:45 pm

    This maybe completely irrelevant but there might be a push away from cyclomethicone because of regulation proposals in the Europe.

    https://echa.europa.eu/registry-of-restriction-intentions/-/dislist/details/0b0236e181a55ade

  • Pattsi

    Member
    April 1, 2021 at 10:11 am

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