Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Critique my hand and body lotion formula

  • Critique my hand and body lotion formula

    Posted by SaraLee on August 9, 2021 at 8:52 pm

    Any feedback would be greatly appreciated!

    • 75% distilled water
    • emollients
    • ·       
      2.5% mango butter
    • ·       
      5% coconut oil
    • Humectants:
    • ·       
      2.5% vegetable glycerine
    • ·       
      2.5% propanediol
    • ·       
      1% honeyquat
    • Emulsifiers:
    • ·       
      1% coco glucoside
    • ·       
      2% glyceryl stearate
    • ·       
      2.5% cetearyl alcohol
    • ·       
      .2% carbomer
    • Skin feel enhancers:
    • ·       
      2.5% natrasil (Hydrogenated
      Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables)
    • ·       
      2.5% cetyl esters
    • Preservation:
    • ·       
      .1% edta
    • ·       
      .1% tocopherols
    • ·       
      Lactic acid to pH 4.5
    • ·       
      .6% DMDM Hydantoin
    Abdullah replied 2 years, 9 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Paprik

    Member
    August 9, 2021 at 10:30 pm

    Emollients: All good to me.

    Humectants: All good to me.

    Emulsifiers: 
    Coco Glucoside, to me, it’s a foaming surfactant. Doesn’t suit emulsions at all. 
    Glyceryl Stearate is mainly for W/O emulsion. It can help with reducing the foaming, but you don’t have any proper emulsifier. Cetearyl alcohol by itself it not sufficient enough. Why you don’t use a high HLB waxy blend + low input of the low HLB GS?
    Have you worked with Carbomers before? If you going to adjust pH at the end, no point of having Carbomer in your formula. 

    Preservation:
    0.1% of Tocopherol won’t be enough probably. Coconut oil has quite good oxidative stability, but still should be protected. Mango butter as well. I would go for 0.4% of the actual tocopherol. (So if you’re using 70% Toco, you would add around 0.6%)
    DMDM Hydantoin is an anti-bacterial predominantly with some anti-fungal activity. It really needs to be combined with an anti-fungal to have good, strong broad spectrum activity. (From experiences)

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 2:08 am

    As @Paprik said you need anti fungal. Also you can reduce the amount of dmdm by half. 

    Your oil phase is small so the viscosity will not be high woth these emulsifiers. 

  • SaraLee

    Member
    August 10, 2021 at 3:58 pm

    Ok thanks so much!  Updates based on your input below.  I included siligel in  place of the carbomer, upped the mango butter and cetearyl alcohol for viscosity and changed the emulsifier to 202, GSC and glyceryl stearate based on the rave reviews on this forum.  Thoughts?

    Emollients

    ·       
    5% organic mango butter

    ·       
    5% organic coconut oil

    Humectants:

    ·       
    2.5% vegetable glycerine

    ·       
    2.5% propanediol

    ·       
    1% honeyquat

    Emulsifiers:

    ·       
    2% montanov 202 (Arachidyl
    Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside)

    ·       
    1% Glyceryl stearate citrate

    ·       
    2% glyceryl stearate

    ·       
    3% cetearyl alcohol

    ·       
    .2% siligel (Xanthan Gum,
    Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Pullulan)

    Skin feel enhancers:

    ·       
    2.5% natrasil (Hydrogenated
    Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables)

    ·       
    2.5% cetyl esters

    Preservation:

    ·       
    .1% edta (sodium phytate)

    ·       
    .4% vitamin E

    ·       
    .3% DMDM Hydantoin

    ·       
    .2% potassium sorbate

    ·       
    .5% glucono delta lactone

    ·       
    Lactic acid to pH 4.5

  • Abdullah

    Member
    August 11, 2021 at 4:27 am

    I don’t like too much butter. 1% may be enough. Coconut oil is good. I would add some petrolatum or dimethicone to it. 
    For viscosity these emulsifiers are better. 

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