Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating creating 15% azelaic acid gel

  • creating 15% azelaic acid gel

    Posted by Sofie on March 5, 2024 at 3:33 am

    Need your advice as a starting formulator. I want to make a anti-acne gel with 15% azelaic acid. KNow already to use propylene glycol to dissolve but in wich ratio? Because higher rate is more stickyan drisk of kristalissation. Want a light feeling gel. not ticky and working on acne. Any advice in inputs and how to formulate? thank you sofie

    Unknown Member replied 2 weeks, 4 days ago 3 Members · 5 Replies
  • 5 Replies
  • Onur

    Member
    March 5, 2024 at 11:07 pm

    Are you starting with a prescription strength formula as a starting formulator? 15% Azealic acid is beyond the cosmetics standards, it’s a drug.

    Plus, it’s highly unstable with pH and heat dependency to perform well in a formula. Reduce it down to 5%, dissolve in glycerin or in propanediol as it’s a lot less sticky. You can try 1:2 ratio (5gr Azealic acid in 10 gr propanediol). Put them in a pre-gelled distilled water and stir. Try to keep it between the pH of 4.5 to 5, add preservative and chealating agents.

    Again, if you’re a starter formulator, maybe start with a nice niacinamide lotion?

  • Sofie

    Member
    March 6, 2024 at 3:04 am

    Hello, i am formulating a cosmetic gel. I am EU based so non prescriptive under 20%. Want to put it in a liposome. Scientif research says optimal % to work on acne as from 15-20%. But if i want to put it in a liposome i don’t think i’ll need that high %. Any experience with liposomes?

  • Onur

    Member
    March 6, 2024 at 12:28 pm

    Lecithin (0.5% or less) is the way to create liposomes in formulas. Get a decent soy lecihthin and work with it.

  • Sofie

    Member
    March 25, 2024 at 3:03 pm

    Thank you Onur!

  • Unknown Member

    Member
    April 4, 2024 at 12:16 am

    Thank you for this valuable post……….

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