Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cream Lost its Viscosity (turned soupy/lotion)

  • Cream Lost its Viscosity (turned soupy/lotion)

    Posted by JackDerrington on February 12, 2021 at 1:52 am

    Hi all,

    After a test formula for a cream, the texture was good, but there were some lumps (the cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol didn’t completely melt).

    I took a small sample of that same product, reheated it and remixed it, and it came out perfect.

    I applied the same “fix” to the larger quantity (reheated it, and remixed it), but this larger sample came out very soupy. The cream had lost its viscosity and texture.

    I remade a new batch, and now from the get-go it came out soupy and more like a lotion.

    Any ideas what’s happening?

    Formula:

    Water 54%
    Xanthan Gum 0.2%
    LMW Hyaluronic Acid 2%
    Glycerin 3%

    Emulsifying Wax NF 5%
    Caprylic Trigly 5.5%
    Persea Gratissima Oil 3%
    Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate & Unsap 1.5%
    Sunflower Oil 1%
    Cetyl Alcohol 2%
    Shea Butter 2%

    Peptides 2%
    Tocopheyl Acetate 0.5%
    Mushroom Extract 3%
    Vitamin A Liposomes (Retinol) 1%
    Cyclomethicone 6%
    Dragonfruit Extract 1%
    Optiphen Plus 1.5%
    Cucumber Extract 5%

    =============

    The cooldown phase (last sequence above) is much heavier than I have used in the past. However, the first formulation came out fine texture and consistency wise. I assume this high amount of cooldown ingredients may be the issue but it wouldn’t explain why it worked the first time and not the second time.

    Any ideas would greatly be appreciated,

    Thank you!

    Jack

    JackDerrington replied 3 years, 3 months ago 1 Member · 0 Replies
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