Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Cream lip product issue

  • Cream lip product issue

    Posted by Georgina on November 17, 2023 at 12:56 am


    Thank you all so much in advance for your help. I am having an issue with a creamy, oil-based lip product packaged in a glass vial/doe foot component. In some units, after the product cools, the wax seemingly crystallizes and shrinks away from the glass tube. I have tried using the doe foot to stir the product to remove this effect, but it comes back in some units. I had suspected this has to do with temperature and cooling, but I have done some tests and haven’t been able to figure out what the issue is. This is so disappointing because I love the way the formula feels, it does not happen to all units, but this looks like contamination even though it is not. I have attached a photo of worst case.


    PHASE A:

    Marula Oil: 25.20%

    Polymeric Emollient (Mango Butter Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer): 18.96%

    Shea Oil: 18.44%

    Polybutene: 21.81%

    PHASE B:

    Tripeptide (Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Tribehenin (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1) : 1.00%

    Sumac Wax: 3.44%

    Jojoba Esters 70: 3.41%

    Tribehenin: 3.99%

    Floral Wax: 1.58%


    Tocopherol: 0.75%

    Rosehip Extract (Rosa canina Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Water, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate): 0.60%

    Ginger Essential Oil: 0.10%

    Stevia Sweetener (Coconut oil, Stevia): 0.10%

    Preservative System ((Levulinic Acid (80%) (and) Sorbic Acid (5%) (and) Benzoic Acid (15%)): 0.32%

    Botanical Colorant (Melia Azadirachta Extract (95%), Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil (5%)): 0.30%


    1- Weight all ingredients in Phase A and add to container 1
    2- Weight all ingredients in Phase B and add to container 2
    3- Weight all ingredients in Cool Down Phase in container 3
    4- Place Phase B - Container 2 on burner at 70°C and leave until ingredients are fully melted

    7- Keep heating Phase A + B at 70°C and leave until the mixture is fully homogenous, melted, and free of bubbles
    8- Once the mixture is ready, turn off burner
    9- Add Cool Down Phase while gently stirring
    10- Proceed to filling system. Kettle Temp 57°C. Doser Temp 63°C.

    The glass vials are filled and left to cool at room temperature.

    evchem2 replied 8 months ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • evchem2

    November 17, 2023 at 7:40 am

    I am not well-versed in either hot-fill or color cosmetics, but I had a couple thoughts:

    1. Are the glass containers warmed at all before being filled with product? Could you run them through a heat tunnel so they are not quite as cool when being filled? Maybe less of a temperature shock going from 63C to RT containers would help.

    2. Are you selling in the US market? If yes, I would be very careful because your botanical extract (from Campo?) is not an approved colorant for cosmetics, let alone those in contact with the mouth. I would make very sure you have appropriate safety data for this formula.

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