Comparable formulation to this conditioner

Hair

Comparable formulation to this conditioner

Posted by Scarlet on June 4, 2015 at 5:25 pm

Hi, all. I have searched high and low for a comparable duplicate of Bumble & bumble’s leave in rinse out conditioner (which they discontinued). It seems to be a fairly basic formula; however, I’m not having much luck. It was ideal for providing moisture to dry, fine, curly hair without the use of oils or silicone. Hair of this texture cannot handle heavy oils or silicone build up.

Water (Aqua),Cetyl Alcohol,Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (Elder),Wheat
Germ Glycerides,Panthenol (Vitamin B5),Cetearyl Alcohol,Cetrimonium
Bromide,PEG 100 Stearate,Behentrimonium Methosulfate,Lactamide
MEA,Propylene Glycol,Citric Acid,Tetrasodium
EDTA,Methylparaben,Polymethoxy Bicyclic
Oxazolidine,Propylparaben,Fragrance (Parfum)

From their position in the ingredient list, it seems the Panthenol and Wheat Glycerides are the key ingredients.

Any advice on this would be appreciated.

luiscuevasii replied 8 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 12 Replies
12 Replies

OldPerry

Member
June 4, 2015 at 6:10 pm

Panthenol and Wheat Glycerides are their sales ingredients, not likely the ones having much noticeable effect.

Here are the ingredients that matter.

Water, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Bromide, PEG 100 Stearate, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Lactamide MEA, Fragrance (Parfum)
belassi

Member
June 4, 2015 at 7:42 pm

LOI doesn’t look to me as if it is properly ordered.
Scarlet

Member
June 4, 2015 at 7:56 pm

Interesting. Why is that?
belassi

Member
June 4, 2015 at 11:04 pm

(Guestimate)

Water (Aqua), q/s

Cetyl Alcohol, (maybe 4%)

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (Elder), (marketing ingredient - maybe 2% max?)

Wheat Germ Glycerides, (marketing ingredient - 2%?)

Panthenol (Vitamin B5), - expensive! Usually not found at more than 0.5%

Cetearyl Alcohol, - emulsifier for the cetyl, maybe 5%?

Cetrimonium Bromide, - detangler, usually 2%

PEG 100 Stearate, - someone else take a guess

Behentrimonium Methosulfate, - detangler?

Lactamide - acidifier, conditioning agent
MEA, - refattener, foam

Propylene Glycol, - solvent

Citric Acid, -pH adjuster maybe 0.5%?

Tetrasodium EDTA, - 0.2%?

Methylparaben, - 0.2%?

Polymethoxy Bicyclic Oxazolidine, ??

Propylparaben, - 0.15%?

Fragrance (Parfum) - 1%?
Bill_Toge

Member
June 5, 2015 at 12:04 pm

behentrimonium methosulphate is a mild conditioner and a cationic emulsifier (available from Croda, as the Incroquat BTMS series)

Lactamide MEA is a humectant

polymethoxy bicyclic oxazolidine is an antimicrobial, presumably part of the preservative system
OldPerry

Member
June 5, 2015 at 12:50 pm

The LOI could be in the proper order. According to INCI labeling rules you need to list things in order of concentration for everything above 1% so…

Water

Cetyl Alcohol

1% line

Everything else in any order you want

This label just suggests that everything is at 1% or less after Cetyl Alcohol. This actually makes sense if the product is meant to be leave on or rinse off.

Here’s my guess….

Water (Aqua) - qs to 100% (about 90%)

Cetyl Alcohol - 5%

Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract (Elder) - 0.1%

Wheat Germ Glycerides - 0.1%

Panthenol (Vitamin B5) - 0.05%

Cetearyl Alcohol, - 1%

Cetrimonium Bromide, - 0.4%

PEG 100 Stearate, - 0.2%

Behentrimonium Methosulfate, - 0.5%

Lactamide MEA - 0.5%

Propylene Glycol, - 1%

Citric Acid, -pH adjuster maybe 0.5%

Tetrasodium EDTA, - 0.2%

Methylparaben, - 0.2%

Polymethoxy Bicyclic Oxazolidine - 0.2%

Propylparaben, - 0.15%

Fragrance (Parfum) - 0.2%
Scarlet

Member
June 5, 2015 at 1:16 pm

Thank you all, I really appreciate the input!
Bobzchemist

Member
June 5, 2015 at 2:45 pm

Tell us how your batch comes out?
luiscuevasii

Member
June 5, 2015 at 7:40 pm

@belassi @perry, im trying to make a formula like the one that both of you mentioned, but i dont have “cetearly alcohol”, can i use stearic acid instead?, i dont have any emulsifier compatible with Centrimonium bromide or Polyquads available.
belassi

Member
June 5, 2015 at 10:02 pm

No, it’s not the same. The closest sub would be glycerol monostearate.
OldPerry

Member
June 9, 2015 at 12:43 am

Cetearyl alcohol is a blend of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol. In some cases you might be able to use stearic acid as a replacement but it really depends on the formula.
luiscuevasii

Member
June 11, 2015 at 4:51 am

@perry thanks, but can i make my own cetearyl alcohol?, i mean i have cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol available.