Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Comodegenic issue

  • Comodegenic issue

    Posted by belassi on May 13, 2015 at 5:33 am
    A while ago I posted here another discussion which was a development of a skin cream. I ended up adopting it as a product but while it produces great results (the improvement in skin tone lasts several days) it has caused pimples on the back of my hands - and at my age I almost never break out. Opinions as to the probable cause will be welcome! I’ve posted the final formula below:
    Polar phase:
    Water 80%
    Glycerine 1%
    d-Panthenol 1%
    Green Tea Extract 0.2%
       Nonpolar phase
    Chia oil 3%
    Stearic acid 2%
    Cetyl alc 2%
    Cetearyl alc 5%
    Silsense DW-18 0.1%
    Emulgin VL75 2%
    capric/caprylic triglycerides 2%
    Vitamin E 0.5%
    parabens 0.4%
    Fragrance 0.2%

    belassi replied 9 years, 1 month ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • georgetedder

    Member
    May 14, 2015 at 12:52 am

    I’m not a professional, nor am I really a chemist, so take my comment with a grain of salt. I started making my own products, when the Art of shaving aftershave balm became too expensive for me. At first I used stearic acid as a thickener, but used to get acne after using it - even when I made a moisturizer with 8% glycolic acid, I still broke out when using steric acid as a thickener. I have extremely extremely oily Italian skin. When I removed that ingredient from my formula, the effect went away. That could just be my skin though. I don’t use stearic acid in any of the stuff I make anymore, except bar soap.

  • belassi

    Member
    May 14, 2015 at 4:46 am

    Thanks George. I have other creams with more than 2% stearic that don’t cause this problem, so I am inclined to think it must be either the Chia oil, or the Emulgin VL75 (this is the first time I have used that emulsifier) or maybe the cetearyl is too high. I think perhaps I’ll do a knockout on the Emulgin first.

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