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Combination of Geogard 221 & Leucidal Liquid SF
Good afternoon,
I am about to make this Vitamin C Serum (for my personal use only, I only expect it to last 1 to 2 months unless the L-Ascorbic
Acid oxidizes before that).This is the formula (pH 3.5):
Distilled
WaterQ.S. Sodium Lactate 3% Panthenol 1% Glycerin 1% Ferulic Acid 0,5% Polysorbate 80
*1% d-Alpha
Tocopherol *1% Sodium
Hyaluronate (RMW)0,2% 1,3-Propanediol 30% L-Ascorbic
Acid15% Preservative(s) Q.S. I live in Europe, so I cannot buy Liquid Germall Plus (my first option); I cannot use Geogard 221 with Potassium Sorbate because of the Vit. C, so I was thinking of using a combination of Geogard 221 (1%) & Leucidal Liquid SF (2%). Is that viable/safe?
Note: I have had a skin reaction to Phenoxyethanol in the past, and call me ignorant, but I a am a little bit afraid of parabens…
Thank you very much!
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18 Replies
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Geoguard ultra would be better.Use at 1% .
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Thank you for your prompt reply. I thought mixing Sodium
Benzoate and Vit. C was also not a good idea… -
I’d like to suggest using either L-Resveratrol or Pycnogenol (pine bark extract) as an antioxidant. Of the two, pine bark extract has no solubility issues but it is a dark brown colour.
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Hi Belassi!
Thank you very much for your suggestion. Unfortunately, I can only find L-Resveratrol and Pycnogenol as oral supplements
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In that case, a possible fallback is green tea extract (high in EGCG), 0.2-0.5%; it is an indicator so you might get a pink colour in that pH. There is a commonality between this and pine bark extract.
I have all three here, but for our vitamin C product, I use the pine, because it is the most potent and the L-Res, because of solubility issues, I only use that in a COSMOS item that has a lot of ethanol in it. -
Green tee is easier to get.
Thank you very much for your generosity!
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One last thing Belassi… If I was able to find the Pycnogenol (I am quite stubborn), what would be the right percentage for my recipe?
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Hang on I’ll check:
My experimental notes record 0.3% L-Resveratrol (in 15% ethanol)
And the other version (please note I am using not L-Ascorbic acid, but L-Ascorbyl 2-phosphate 6-palmitate ) has 2% of pine bark extract from Bulk Actives in Keelung, Taiwan. You will probably need a higher % since the version of the vitamin I use is relatively stable and requires only 1%. -
Wow… You are amazing. I am so sad that I did not have a good chemistry teacher in school and always hated it… :#
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Very generous of you. I did teach chemistry at one point but in the world of cosmetic chemistry, I am self-taught (with the help of Perry’s excellent resource, Harry’s Cosmetology, Dermatology News, etc.)
Bulk Actives is a good source of actives by the way. They do air mail. -
Once again, thank you!
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Is the combination Potassium Sorbate / Vit. C a real issue? I know that it was already comment on this forum for the residual Benzene produced that is induced by light. I understand that potassium sorbate in formulation is used at acidic pH <5 and is mainly on the form of sorbic acid., thus at the concentration of use of both products it will no be an issue.
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Belassi, do you have any information about the green tea being an indicator? That’s very interesting. We use a 90% EGCG standardized green tea extract and I would love to learn more about it as an indicator. Thank you!!
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No, just practical experience. In basic solutions it turns brown. In acidic solutions it turns pink. See for yourself: Make a solution and test it with your pH meter. Add NaOH to turn it basic and make another solution, add citric acid. You will see what I mean. Many vegetable extracts display similar properties, the classic one is red cabbage.
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This is the formula (pH 3.5):
Distilled Water Q.S. Sodium Lactate 3% Panthenol 1% Glycerin 1% Ferulic Acid 0,5% Polysorbate 80 * 1% d-Alpha Tocopherol * 1% Sodium Hyaluronate (RMW) 0,2% 1,3-Propanediol 30% L-Ascorbic Acid 15% Preservative(s) Q.S. @MarkBroussard
LOL I see your formula is a real hit, keep seeing this everywhere!.
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I do hope it works!!
In any case, I am waiting for the Pycnogenol to arrive (as Belassi suggested).
I will keep you updated..
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Isn’t green tea extract no go with ascorbic acid- i’ve read somewhere lo-o-ong time ago that green tea has metals in it and combined together will oxidise the metals in green tea, or green tea will oxidise ascorbic- one of this, sorry cannot remember which is correct.
for this same reason it’s not recommended to drink green tea with lemon. -
So… I have tried the formula twice and have encountered several problems (why am I not surprised…), not because of @MarkBroussard formula, but because of me.
First, the ferulic acid would not solubilize in glycerin, I tried the second time with 1,3-Propanediol and that did work. I had also had problems when incorporating the hyaluronic acid, so the second time I included it once it had soaked in water for a while.
I had also problems dissolving the ascorbic acid (I should have used a fine milled one).
In order to make this even more horrible, I decided to add some vitamin e (1% mixed tocopherols) dissolved in polysorbate 80 (1%). It turned milky white. The geogard ultra did not dissolved completely in water and I threw it all down the drain.Next time, I will buy ultrafine ascorbic acid, dissolve the geogard in some glycerine instead of water and forget about the vitamin e.
I just wanted to share my experience with you sou you could have a good laugh at my expense
By the way, @Belassi, I got some Pycnogenol but it turned into mud… :#
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