Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair Choosing surfactants for clarifying shampoo

  • Choosing surfactants for clarifying shampoo

    Posted by Zara on March 14, 2022 at 9:00 am

    I made a clarifying shampoo with 17% active and the surfactants are,  Cocamidopropyl betaine, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isothionate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Caprylic, Capric Glucoside. 

    I just need to know if these surfactant are a good choice for a sulfate free clarifying shampoo. 
    I’ve read that non ionic surfactants can’t cut through the build up like anionic surfactants.
    What is your opinion on Sodium Lauryl Sulfoactate?
    Could you please give me some guidance.
    I really appreciate your help in advance.

    Zara replied 1 year, 11 months ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • abdullah

    March 14, 2022 at 12:38 pm

    What is the percentage of each surfactant.

    Yes remove glucoside. 

  • Zara

    March 15, 2022 at 4:07 am

    Abdullah, Thanks for your respond.

    13g each of: Cocamidopropyl betaine & Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, and 
    4g each of: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isothionate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Caprylic, Capric Glucoside. 

    It lathers well, cleanse well and it is not irritating but I am not sure how it would perform on build up.
    I tried testing it by applying lots of dimethicone on my hair (my hair is virgin), then washed it, it seemed it cleaned my hair very well but I though maybe the hair build up is more stubborn. So I would like to know if I need more of the anionic than amphoteric surfactants because of the charge. 
    Btw, I am going to keep the pH at 7-7.5 , so don’t the amphoteric surfactants have negative charge at higher pH? Thanks

  • chemicalmatt

    March 15, 2022 at 3:32 pm

    @Zara The numbers still do not lend themselves to activity (solids) of your cleanser system. I’ll glean here. The amphoterics are both 30 -35% active so you have ~8.0% solids there. The two anionics from Innospec are both 40% active so ~3.2% there, the glucosides are usually 50% active so 2.0% there. So we have ~ 13 - 14% solids in surfactants, the remaining components fragrance, preservative, etc. Does that sound accurate? If so, then take @Abdullah suggestion and drop the glycoside, it doesn’t work nearly as well in detergency. Both the amphos and the anionics are redundant with respect to each other’s partner, so trim down to:
    Iselux LQ-CLR  @  20% (8% active)
    Sodium Lauroamphoacetate 35% @ 16% (5.5% active) 
    Add an alkanolamide at 2% and you should have a better result.

  • Zara

    March 16, 2022 at 9:06 am

    chemicalmatt , Thank you for your time and the explanation. 

    I’ve bought these 2 surfactants as
    * Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isothionate, 80% active …….    https://www.trulux.com.au/product/sodium-lauroyl-methyl-isethionate-slmi-flakes-
    Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 85%

    Could it be from other manufacturer than Iselux ?
    Btw, thanks for the formula, I’ll try something similar to this.

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