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Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Ceramides in a water-based formula not emulsion

  • Ceramides in a water-based formula not emulsion

    Posted by Shams on May 22, 2023 at 8:49 pm

    Hi everyone.

    Is there any problem with adding ceramides to a water-based serum-Not an emulsion.

    I found some water-miscible ceramide blend like SK-INFLUX® Evolve MB or Tri-Solve. However suppliers say it is only better to use in an emulsion-based rather than water-based. None of them were able to give me a confirmed reason as of why not in a water-based formula. Can any one confirm by explaining why or advise otherwise that it can be used in water-based formulas?

    I saw a CeraVe micellar water with ceramides, so I thought it is doable..but the suppliers are confusing me.

    I am yet to receive samples myself to try, however thought to check with some industry experts before I waste my samples and time


    • SK-Influx INCI = (Ceramide NP (and) Ceramide AP (and) Ceramide EOP (and) Phytosphingosine (and) Cholesterol (and) Behenic Acid (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate (and) Triethyl Citrate (and) Sodium Levulinate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Water (Aqua)
    • Tri-Solve INCI = (Trehalose, <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Cholesterol, <b style=”font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color);”>Ceramide NS, Hydrogenated Lecithin)
    Richard replied 1 week, 5 days ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Richard

    May 22, 2023 at 9:53 pm

    I made up a gel last week containing Trisolve P which is the vegan form of the Trisolve. I had no issues with the product going together. The gel was based on starch and tara gum and went together without any problems although I did wonder how the Trisolve P would go into the gel, especially since it was a reasonably old sample of the Trisolve P which was quite thick and gluggy. I also added a number of water based actives and in the end it was still ok. I have no idea at this stage of stability but will monitor it over time for any adverse affects. Time will tell, but I do think the Trisolve does seem to be a fairly robust ingredient despite it’s relatively short shelf life although I am not in a position to comment on efficacy.