Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Skin Can 0.3% CAPB in this leave on product for face cause acne?


  • Can 0.3% CAPB in this leave on product for face cause acne?

    Posted by Abdullah on March 9, 2023 at 10:19 am

    I am making 2% salicylic acid salt solution at pH 5 and to speed up the production i use 0.3% active CAPB surfactant to dissolve salicylic acid better and faster. It is a leave on Product for skin.

    Most of people who use it likes it.

    About 3 months ago a friend of mine age ~15 who had a few acne started using one for her acne but her acne increased a lot to all of her face. He then he went to doctor, got benzoyl peroxide but didn’t work. Then went to doctor again and got Isotretinoin and it did work for her acne a lot.

    As her acne started getting very worse after using my Product i am afraid if my Product has caused it.

    So my question is, can any of these ingredients in a leave on Product cause acne or make it worse?

    CAPB 0.3%

    Salicylic acid 2%

    Ethyl lauroyl arginate HCl & phenoxyethanol as preservative

    Unknown Member replied 1 year, 3 months ago 2 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • Unknown Member

    March 18, 2023 at 9:56 am

    Yes, your product could have directly induced acne.

    Lauramidopropyl betaine is the major component of cocamidopropyl betaine.

    *CAPB contains a medium chain fatty acid [C:12 ] which has been proven to feed specific bacteria residing upon the skin in some individuals.*

    There are certain people who are very sensitive to C:12 as it can cause their skin great distress with breakouts.

    The inflammation these clients experience is directly due to an inflammatory reaction to the specific fatty acid profile of C:12.

    It is *not (hormonal or “common”) acne per se - although many clients claim and believe it is.

    However, it technically is not.

    Acne is caused by excessive hormonal androgenic/testosterone dysregulation and is often associated with inflammatory conditions caused mainly from colonization of the bacteria <em style=”background-color: var(-bb-content-background-color); font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>Propionibacterium acnes (<em style=”background-color: var(-bb-content-background-color); font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; color: var(-bb-body-text-color); -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%;”>P. acnes).

    This is well documented.

    The bottom line is many individuals are sensitive to C:12 and will immediately “break out” as soon as their resident facial bacteria began feeding upon the fatty acids - causing inflammation.

    You should eliminate the CAPB for best results and reformulate.

  • Unknown Member

    March 18, 2023 at 10:02 am

    Sorry, do not know what happened with all the gibberish … for Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) regarding cause of acne.

  • Abdullah

    March 18, 2023 at 7:41 pm

    @SnowBunnyChemist thanks a lot

    So if it is c12 chain in CAPB, does it mean any other surfactant with mostly c12 will cause the same? For example polyglyceryl 4 laurate.

    Does c12 feed p. Acne or any other bacteria?

  • Unknown Member

    March 25, 2023 at 9:44 pm

    Hi Abdullah,

    Yes to your question re: anything C:12.

    Many people swear it breaks them out and when they stop using it their inflammation stops. It’s pretty cut and dried.

    Also - regarding Oleic - It is believed by many (and research) that oils *higher in Oleic acid* can be problematic for acneic skin, seeming to exacerbate inflammation.

    Ditto for Oleic causing problems for facial conditions such as:

    Seborrheic dermatitis, Candida, Psoriasis, Malassezia [Pityrosporum folliculitis], etc.

    Also, unfortunately, many people can have several skin conditions all at the same time.

    (often unbeknownst to them)

    They think their skin condition is all just from one problem. It is often not, and is rather a combination of several inflammatory skin conditions.

    If you are formulating for any inflamed skin condition -

    It is believed oils with a higher ratio of *Linoleic acid - versus - Oleic acid* are better tolerated by many people.

    Here is a list of oils which have more beneficial ratios with a higher *Linoleic acid:Oleic acid* ratio.

    • Almond
    • Argan
    • Black Cumin
    • Evening primrose
    • Grape seed
    • Hemp
    • Pumpkin
    • Safflower
    • Sunflower
    • Sesame
    • Sunflower

    There are many people who swear that they FLARE up when they use higher Oleic oils in their skin care routine - and that the issue diminishes or actually STOPS - when they discontinue using said oil - **same for Lauric acid in Coconut oil for problem causer C:12.**

    Some of these above oils can be expensive for formulating, I know - I am just giving you the entire list for your own knowledge base.

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