Browning in Lotion w fragrance containing Vanilla

Formulating

Browning in Lotion w fragrance containing Vanilla

Posted by Sarah on June 5, 2014 at 7:49 pm

Hi Everyone,

I have a lotion which browns up overnight - the browning is due to the vanilla in the fragrance.

Can anyone recommend an alternative to BHT to prevent this browning? I have run trials with 0.1% BHT but the browning still occurs.

The formulation is as follows:

Stearic Acid 3.00%

Cetyl Alcohol 1.60%

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter 0.20%

Cocos Nucifera Oil 0.10%

Lanolin 2.00%

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.10%

Paraffinum Liquidum 2.00%

Isopropyl Myristate 1.00%

Aqua (Water) 92.49%

Carbomer 0.18%

Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05%

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice 0.01%

Potassium Hydroxide 0.36%

Aqua (Water) 1.50%

Sodium Hydroxide 0.12%

Aqua (Water) 1.00%

Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerin & Sorbic Acid 0.99%

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.80%

(the formulation does not contain TEA because Marketing has decided TEA free is a great claim)

Unfortunately the fragrance is already used in several products in the range so reformulation of the fragrance itself is not an option.

Any advice would be gratefully received.

Sarah

OldPerry replied 9 years, 10 months ago 6 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

DavidW

Member
June 5, 2014 at 7:55 pm

The only thing you can do that I know of is to ask the fragrance manufacturer to make a version that will not turn the product brown if they can. They may be able to make a version that smells very similar but will stand up better.
Chemist77

Member
June 5, 2014 at 11:59 pm

@Sarah Although I haven’t tried it but I read this article about Sodium Citrate being used in soaps to slow down discoloration from vanilla. The explanation provided was that the salt protects the highly oxidation susceptible aromatic ring of vanilla.
Finding a solution to prevent vanilla discoloration is like looking for a needle in a haystack but you can try Sodium Citrate and we would all be glad here if you find success and let us know as well.

cheers
MakingSkincare

Member
June 7, 2014 at 4:45 am

Try keeping the pH below 6 and add a sulfite based antioxidant.
Sarah

Member
June 9, 2014 at 4:41 pm

Thanks guys - I will chase up my supplier again as well as trial your suggestions in the lab.

I will update you in a few days wrt the results.
Bobzchemist

Member
June 9, 2014 at 5:52 pm

There is a mixture that inhibits vanillin browning - I think Agilex sells it.
Chemist77

Member
June 9, 2014 at 9:52 pm

@Bobz from what i have read, it has been cleared many times that slowdown is possible, prevention not possible. Hope I am wrong coz even I have same issues in many if my lotions with vanillin.
I think the product is VanillaWhite and its a propietary molecule, might be worth a try. Thanks Bobz
Sarah

Member
June 15, 2014 at 8:23 pm

Hi Everyone - I have run a series of trials and it appears (so far) that the winner in this case is dropping the pH to about 5.8. It has decreased the viscosity slightly but this is minor and I am sure I can tweak the formulation to counteract this.

Bob - I will look into the Agilex product - it sounds promising.

Thanks everyone for your contributions.

Sarah
OldPerry

Member
June 17, 2014 at 8:41 am

@Sarah - Thanks for the follow-up! That’s how everyone else will be able to learn.