I’m a novice formulator who really wants to formulate my own products for personal use and as a hobby. I know I can just find products I like, but I would like to learn.
I’m trying to find the best moisturizer for a rinse-off product. A moisturizer that can be deposited via surfactant foam onto skin. Currently, I’m looking at Amodimethicone, Dimethicone
OR Petrolatum via a polymer. I can’t find much information on how to make petrolatum more effectively stick in a surfactant system. I know their is a patent for it, but I’m not sure where to obtain this product. Perhaps with a polymer such as cationic guar or HydroxyEthylCellulose? I also don’t want to break a patent if I ever decide to sell the product on a small-scale basis.
I know your busy, so any information or redirects to information would be much appreciated. Thanks so much for ANY advice.
Well, what to say. It is possible to include a silicone in the body wash, but it will likely be pretty expensive since it will need to be a water dispersible silicone. For instance I have Silsense DW-18 here and it really is a nice item, but it isn’t cheap.
I really don’t think the petrolatum idea will fly.
First of all, be sure to include glycerin at around 3%. It’s an effective humectant and probably the least expensive one you’ll find.
If you are creating something like a shampoo or bodywash, and want to step it up a notch, my favorite is PEG-7 Olivate (Olivem 300 from Lotioncrafter), used at 3%. It’s an emollient, lubricant, anti-irritant, solubilizer, and thickener — and it doesn’t suppress foaming/ lathering.
In addition, you can add a film-former like a hydrolyzed protein (used at around 2%) which will help the skin to retain moisture.
You mentioned using dimethicone which is also another good choice. If used, keep that at around 2%.
I think this is a perfectly acceptable question, time is precious in the modern world and there is a huge market for products with dual functionality. I saw some interesting euromonitor data recently that stated that moisturisation was the single most desired attribute for consumers purchasing “wash off” products and that over 50% of global “wash off” product launches in 2015 made some kind of moisturisation claim.
However moisturisation from a wash off product is difficult (and shouldn’t be confused with skin feel) the very nature of surfactants is to remove grease and dirt which would include natural skin lipids. Personally Glycerin would not be my choice I don’t believe it is substantive to the skin enough in a surfactant based product. I would go down the refatting route and would recommend trying Ceraphyl RMT or good old Lamesoft PO65.
I agree with @Chemist79 about using glycerin. It is water soluble and will simply wash away during use. It will have no noticeable impact in regards to moisturizing for a rinse off product. This is true of any water soluble ingredient that doesn’t have some mechanism to stay behind.
…and still it is hard to be sure. Almost all shaving gels have glycerine or sorbitol in them. When I was (re)formulating a shaving gel I kept glycerine in there mostly for the moisturizing claim but when testing (on myself) I didn’t notice any difference. A quat made a difference though. However to “feel” moisturized and to “be” moisturized are usually two different things.
There is a secondary reason you can include glycerin in a rinse off product. It can help prevent the product from drying out. Typically, a shaving gel is dispensed from a pump or aerosol and some of the product can get left behind in the opening. Without a humectant, that bit of extra product can dry out and block the opening. If you include glycerin in your formula you reduce the chances of that happening. It doesn’t moisturize the skin, it moisturizes the formula.