Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Color and makeup BAKED MINERAL MAKEUP


    Posted by pri55 on May 28, 2015 at 5:23 am

    During the last few days, I began pressing my mineral powder blends. For a long time, my customers were asking if I could offer a pressed version of my minerals. I want to produce a baked eyeshadow like those with the particular dome shape. How do I go about this? Can it be done in a regular convection oven?

    The ingredients and process for the batch I’m currently working on is as follows:

    Mica, titanium dioxide, iron oxide yellow, carmine, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate, kaolin clay, nylon 12, micronized silk powder.

    In a coffee grinder, I add titanium dioxide, iron oxide yellow, carmine, kaolin clay and micronized silk powder and grind for 30 seconds.

    Consecutively, this mixture goes in a bag with the mica, boron nitride, magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate and nylon 12. I then massage these ingredients for a while until everything is incorporated well. In total, this blend yields 453 grams.

    Each tin jar (not pan) holds 6 grams of powder. To each, I add 10 drops of my pressing medium (isopropyl myristate, dimethicone, bis-vinyl dimethicone, dimethicone copolymer) plus 2 drops fractionated coconut oil. When both components are combined to the consistency of a thick batter I just tap the jar slightly on a flat surface to eliminate air bubbles and began to press with a cotton cloth under a flat acrylic disc that fits my jars. So far, the end product is a nicely pressed eyeshadow that has almost no flyaway when I pass a brush over it.

    Can I eliminate the process of pressing and add my jars directly to an oven? Would this be safe?

    Bobzchemist replied 9 years ago 2 Members · 1 Reply
  • 1 Reply
  • Bobzchemist

    May 28, 2015 at 1:55 pm

    I can give you some advice - I’ll have to be mostly general, since this is an area I consult in.

    Processing: I would add an extra step - use a kitchen blender to blend your pigment grind and the boron nitride, magnesium myristate, magnesium stearate and nylon 12 together. Then you can use a bag to blend in the mica (which is the only ingredient that could be harmed by a blender.)

    Baking: Yes, it would be safe to add your jars to an oven - it won’t hurt the eyeshadow, and probably won’t hurt the jars, either. But… baking the powder won’t actually do anything for your formula/process. It certainly won’t eliminate the need for pressing. (pressing warm powder might be somewhat easier than pressing cold powder, though)

    Now, if you bake an eyeshadow powder for long enough at a high enough temperature, you will sterilize it, which is a Good Thing(tm), but not the real reason folks are baking powder. I know why and how it’s being done, but it’s not something I’ll discuss publicly. I can tell you that powders are only being baked to eliminate water, and also that it’s not a process that can be accessed without spending $10 - $20,000 on equipment.

    I’d be happy to discuss how to speed up your pressing process, but bakiing won’t be an answer, sorry.

Log in to reply.