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Azelaic acid
Hello! I purchased azelaic acid from FSS (https://www.formulatorsampleshop.com/Azelaic-Acid-p/fssd00664.htm) in order to add it to a serum to lighten pigmentation on my face.
On the page it states the recommended dosage is 0,5-1,5%, however everywhere I see commercial products with concentrations from 10% (OTC), to 20% (prescription). It seems then that 1,5% will not have an effect. I have contacted the supplier, but they said they didn’t have an answer as to how up to 20% could be included, and that their recommended usage rate was ‘from their formulating results’.
I also asked abot specifics regarding solubulising, but they only repeated was was stated on the page, that it is ‘Soluble in Glycerin &
Glycol’, where I was hoping for more specifics on ratios. I’ve googled to find info on formulating, but found surprisingly little on the subject. Also all search results are saturated w. purchase-options for The Ordinary
(They have a azelaic acid suspension 10% available for less than a fiver, which makes me more confused than ever! but never mind, I’ll be happy with advice on the part about the formulating.)
Hope for your advice on this. Many thanks in advance! -
2 Replies
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I know this is an old post, but thought I’d share my experience in case someone else comes across this while searching for info on azelaic acid.
I bought azelaic acid for FSS as well and thought it was strange that it had such a low recommended usage amount because it’s usually used at a higher percentage in products. I have been using it at 10% and it’s fine. I never disregard recommended amounts, but because I have been using a higher percentage for the past few years I decided to go with what I usually use. But the stuff I make is just for personal use.I have read that it can recrystalize if heated above 104f. But have also heard that it’s too low of a ph that can cause recrystalizing. I bought an azelaic serum that would recrystalize, so I would have to stick the bottle in hot water. Later I found out that it had a ph of 6.3. I believe azelaic acid does well at 4-5ph. The company had a note on their site that recrystalizing was normal and not a big deal. 🙄 I had purchased that serum before I started formulating and was naive.
I have had to heat it to about 130f when using 10% azelaic and 20% glycols. I didn’t want to go any higher with the glycols in my formula. I did make a 7% azelaic acid moisturizer today and used 16% glycols and it was dissolved completely by 120f. But today I used a coffee grinder(for my cosmetics only) and turned it into a powder which helped it dissolve faster. I haven’t had any issues with recrystalizing. I have used ethoxydiglycol, propylene glycol and glycerin as solvents.
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Hi Melinda. I’m new to formulating and seen your comment. I am experimenting with azelaic and I’m finding that the 20% of propanediol or glycol I’m using in my formula is leaving a greasy/oily residue. I’m using azelaic acid at 10%. Have you had this issue? What do you suggest to add into the formula to resolve this? Aim is to make a serum.
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