Anhydrous Vit C formulation
Hi! I made a post about a Vit C water-based serum, but after researching this issue in depth and seeing how much of a headache stabilizing Vit C in water is, I decided to go with an anhydrous solution. Per this study the positive effects of L-Ascorbic acid can still be observed in an anhydrous oil solution without the hassle of an unstable product.
Recipe (for 50gr):
Rosehip oil (INCI: rosa moschata seed oil) - 36.95gr (73.9%)
L-Ascorbic acid - 10 gr (20%)
Ascorbyl Palmitate (INCI: ascorbyl palmitate) - 2.5 gr (5%)
Vitamin E (INCI: tocopherol, helianthus annuus seed oil) - 0.25 gr (0.5%)
Cosgard-preservative (INCI: benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, glycerin, sorbic acid) - 0.3gr (0.6%)
1. In a 50 ml Berzelius beaker put the L-ascorbic acid and the Ascorbyl Palmitate. Pour ~15gr of Rosehip oil over it and stir well with a PP spoon;
2. Add the rest of the Rosehip oil and stir with a PP spoon;
3. Add the Vitamin E and mix for 1 minute with a mini-mixer;
4. Add the Cosgard(preservative) and mix well for 3 minutes with a mini-mixer
5. Let the serum sit for 5 minutes;
6. Transfer to 50ml Pipette Amber bottle;
7. Keep in the fridge and use for 3 months
- reduce acne scars, red spots and fine wrinkles
1. This recipe probably doesn’t call for a preservative, but is adding it a mistake?
2. Anything I could add to maybe thicken the oil? I’m not sure how runny it will be.
3. Anything I could add for a better absorption of the actives? Maybe some Jojoba oil (INCI: simmondsia chinensis seed oil)?
4. Does such my recipe require heating?
5. Is there anything wrong with my recipe/instructions?
Additional info: I’m in Europe/Romania and I’m getting ingredients only from elemental.eu . Unfortunately, I cannot find tetrahexadecyl ascorbate here. Therefore I am using Ascorbyl Palmitate as it’s partially soluble in oil and L-ascorbic acid to create a Vit C suspension in oil.
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