Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Alternative to Veegum Ultra?

  • Alternative to Veegum Ultra?

    Posted by MattTheChemist on October 21, 2021 at 3:11 pm

    Does anyone have any suggestions for suitable alternatives to Veegum Ultra (INCI: Magnesium Aluminium Silicate)? 

    I am recreating a formula for a client and they want to remove/replace the Veegum. This is a simple o/w emulsion (lotion) with 9% oil phase, 4% anionic Emulsifier (Emulium Kappa) and the Veegum is in there at 0.2%. 

    The client “hates” the INCI so if there are any alternatives you know of, please share!

    Thank you!

    MattTheChemist replied 2 years, 1 month ago 3 Members · 4 Replies
  • 4 Replies
  • ariepfadli

    October 24, 2021 at 7:30 am

    Try micro crystaline cellulose combine with silica fumes

  • MattTheChemist

    October 24, 2021 at 2:57 pm

    @ariepfadli thank you!

  • pharma

    October 24, 2021 at 3:22 pm
    You could replace it with bentonite. I known, it’s nearly the same just less pure (and not from Vanderbilt) but the INCI is bentonite and hence free of any scary chemical words ;) .
    What does it do in there (0.2% isn’t much)? Bentonite/Veegum can serve several purposes in different formulations and, depending on its job here, different alternatives may be considered. In this case, I don’t think it’s about viscosity but more about emulsion stabilisation. Hence, a thickening/co-emulsifying agent such as hydrophobically modified polymers or water soluble polymeric emulsifiers should work at low levels (mind, they usually have scary INCIs too!). More natural alternatives which require a bit higher inclusion rates might be gum Arabic, LaraCare A200, or BergaMuls ET 1 (as might be the proposition of @ariepfadli ).
  • MattTheChemist

    October 27, 2021 at 2:49 pm

    @Pharma great question!

    I was as confused as you are. When I read the Veegum data, the suggested usage rate was much higher than found in this formula. My guess is that it was added as a stabilizer, but even then the client says the current formula has some stability issues in extreme temps.

    Also, I have the benchmark sample and it is unusually thin, as is. She wants it thicker/creamier, without playing with the lipid level. I ended up using Polyhydroxystearic Acid with success! She doesn’t mind this INCI  :D 

    Thank you for your insight as always!

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