Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Alpha Arbutin serum

  • Alpha Arbutin serum

    Posted by Waleed636 on August 14, 2020 at 1:45 pm

    Alpha arbutin 2%
    Hyaluronic acid 1%
    Propanediol 2%
    Glycerin 1%
    Caprylyl glycol 0.4%
    Ethyhexylglycerin 0.2%
    Phenoxyethanol 0.4%
    Polysorbate 20 1%
    Chlorophenisen 0.1%
    Dmdm Hydantoin 0.2%
    Water to make 100%

    Open for suggestions

    1501 replied 5 years ago 6 Members · 10 Replies
  • 10 Replies
  • OldPerry

    Professional Chemist / Formulator
    August 14, 2020 at 4:13 pm

    Without a question, there isn’t much advice to give.

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 14, 2020 at 7:40 pm
    Maybe a little bit overkill of preservatives (better that way than the other way round).
    Why polysorbate 20%? Not saying it’s unnecessary, just asking for its purpose.
  • Waleed636

    Member
    August 16, 2020 at 8:36 am

    Pharma to make Caprylyl and ethyhexylglycerin dissolve and make serum clear

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    August 16, 2020 at 10:12 am

    Propanediol might be sufficient for that

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 16, 2020 at 1:32 pm
    I wouldn’t use a PEG emulsifier to dissolve preservatives; too high a risk that they actually become inactive. The solubility limits are 0.3% for caprylyl glycol and 0.1% for EHG, smaller amounts of ‘solvents’ should hence suffice, you might even be okay with simply reducing their concentration or try the proposition of @ngarayeva001 ;) . The only real bug food in your serum is HA, else, there is nothing inside which would necessitate such heavy preservation.
  • Waleed636

    Member
    August 26, 2020 at 9:30 pm

    I have tried without Polysorbate but serum turns out to be milky and not clear the only purpose of polysorbate is to make serum clear

  • Pharma

    Member
    August 27, 2020 at 5:58 pm

    Is it the preservatives which cause the milky appearance? If so, upping pentanediol and/or glycerol to solve the issue would be a wiser strategy (from a theoretical point of view, not a consumer’s perception).

  • alan123

    Member
    August 27, 2020 at 8:47 pm

    What preservatives did you guys used for Serum(gels) to have a clear solution?

  • Waleed636

    Member
    August 27, 2020 at 9:39 pm

    Pharma said:

    Is it the preservatives which cause the milky appearance? If so, upping pentanediol and/or glycerol to solve the issue would be a wiser strategy (from a theoretical point of view, not a consumer’s perception).

    Yes the ethyhexylglycerin and caprylyl glycol makes it milky

  • 1501

    Member
    August 29, 2020 at 3:03 am

    With 2% arpha-arbutin, the serum can be discolored by several months, I think so.

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