Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Allantoin Recrystalization

  • Allantoin Recrystalization

    Posted by arctat on November 28, 2013 at 12:11 am

    I have had several lotions with allantoin recrystalization. I’ve read conflicting things about how to prevent this - some said it must be heated above a certain temperature to ensure it has all dissolved, some said it is about the rate of cooling (faster or slower is better, I think I’ve read both). Anyone know how to prevent this reliably? Thank you!

    MakingSkincare replied 10 years, 7 months ago 5 Members · 11 Replies
  • 11 Replies
  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 1:29 am

    As per the literature available I think it should be added below 50°C, at higher temperatures it will dissolve and recrystallize on cooling. So the trick is I think prolonged mixing (dispersion) to a very fine particle size and which cannot be felt during application. 

    Hope this helps. 
  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 8:40 am

    You could also try reducing the amount that you use.  Is the allantoin having a noticeable effect in the performance of your product? 

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 9:32 am

    @Perry the allowable limit it 0.5-2.0%, even at low concentration it is effective. So if he wants to use it he can lower the limit but the process has to be the same as I previously mentioned.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 12:03 pm

    What is it effective at doing?

  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 12:16 pm

    Try it at 0.5% - it should be fine at that level.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 1:18 pm

    @Perry it is a skin protectant and anti-irritant, rest of the claims are too complex to just accept them at face value.

  • Duncan

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 1:26 pm

    Allantoin hs been associated with wound healing. The evidence is inferred by the fact that maggots exude it, and maggots are very good at cleaning up septic wounds. It’s even a proper recognised medical therapy for bed sores. (How the diet going ?) :D

    I’ve usually gone to lower concentrations than 0.5%, typically 0.1-0.2% not had any problems with recrystallisation. (I know that the data says that 0.5% is soluble, I’ve found it difficult to get that all into a hot water phase - YMMV)

    At 0.5% I did see one very old product have crystals in it. Came in as a glass complaint. The product was at least 3 years old, not seen the problem since

     

  • OldPerry

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 3:04 pm

    @milliachemist - right. I just wonder what level has to be added for a consumer to notice a difference in the performance of the product. When will a consumer definitely see a difference, at 1%, 0.5%, 0.1%, or 0%?

    From a formulators standpoint you should use the lowest level of an ingredient in which you get a consumer perceptible difference.

  • Chemist77

    Member
    November 28, 2013 at 9:24 pm

    @Perry I absolutely agree with you, it would need some in vivo testing to check it otherwise for a formulator there is no way to know the quantum of effect of different dosages.

  • arctat

    Member
    November 29, 2013 at 3:05 am

    Perry - good question! I think I notice the effect at 1%, and probably would at less than that. I feel like it softens the skin after a few minutes - similar to the effect from adding AHAs.

    Thanks everyone for the information. I will try keeping it below 50C and .5% or less.
    Duncan, it does feel like small shards of glass. Not quite as sharp, but similar.

    Thank you!
  • MakingSkincare

    Member
    November 29, 2013 at 5:39 am

    arctat - yes do experiment with it.  For me, at 0.5% it works if I add it at the very end of the heated water phase. 

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