Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Hair All Natural hair conditioner leaving oily residue or not rinsing out completely

  • All Natural hair conditioner leaving oily residue or not rinsing out completely

    Posted by Marike on March 7, 2023 at 6:53 am

    Hi all I’m fairly new at formulating and are trying to make a luxurious rinse out all natural hair conditioner.

    Please advise is my oil content too high? I’ve added Coco Glucoside in the hope that it will help with rinsing out completely, it helped but I’m still not happy. Its also still a little runny and doesn’t have enough slip.

    Water Phase

    Aqua 54

    Honey 12

    D Panthenol 0.5

    Coco Glucoside (PC818) 6

    Glycerine 1

    Oil Phase

    BTMS 25% 2

    CETO STEARYL ALCOHOL (30 /70) 4

    Jojoba 5.5

    Shea butter refined 1

    Argan oil 3

    Guar Gum 0.2

    Grapeseed oil 2

    Coconut oil extra virgin Organic 2

    Cool Down Phase

    Hydrolized Wheat Protein 2.7

    Euxyl K903 500ml (Geogard 221 preservitive) 1

    Vitamin E acetate 2

    Cedarwood atlas Organic 0.1

    Peppermint EO 100ml 0.1

    Lemon EO (FG) 100ml 0.1

    Rose blend EO 500ml 0.5

    Vanilla STD oil EO 0.3

    PhilGeis replied 1 year, 3 months ago 4 Members · 8 Replies
  • 8 Replies
  • KMRCSMiami

    Member
    March 7, 2023 at 9:21 am

    SO.. I have a few suspicions and questions here but I am not 100% sure what the cause is.

    #1- Is this is traditional honey? I would not recommend using at this percentage. They have other alternatives at the re-packagers. These may be more appropriate. Use at % recommended by manufacturers.

    https://www.makingcosmetics.com/BOT-HONEY-02.html?lang=en_US

    https://lotioncrafter.com/products/honeyquat-pf?_pos=2&_sid=275e0b4cd&_ss=r

    https://lotioncrafter.com/products/honey-powder?_pos=1&_sid=275e0b4cd&_ss=r

    #2 BTMS is rather high, and when used this high it can cause build up (as I’ve seen in hair tress tests). I recommend decreasing BTMS to 15% and switch the difference to the oils, maybe adding a thickening agent to the water phase like a gum.

    What I also recommend is doing a knock-out study, remove honey (leave everything as it is) and assess effect. If still greasy, reduce BTMS by half. I truly think its a combination of both the real honey and BTMS. Also, I don’t think the surfactant is necessary here, unless its a really mild shampoo- conditioner? Not too sure why its here.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by  KMRCSMiami.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by  KMRCSMiami.
  • Marike

    Member
    March 7, 2023 at 10:20 am

    Thank you its BTMS 25 at 2% sorry its a typo.

  • Marike

    Member
    March 7, 2023 at 10:23 am

    And yes its traditional raw honey, I’ve read somewhere that honey increases the slip of a conditioner, I will remove the honey and give you an update.

    • KMRCSMiami

      Member
      March 7, 2023 at 1:05 pm

      Thank you for that clarification. BTMS25 is cationic, it also provides slip + detangling so the honey can be removed. I think the honey may be what’s causing this. If the BTMS doesn’t provide the slip you’re looking for you may consider dimethicone or polyquaternium-10 or 7. Nothing “natural” will truly give you slip, these chemicals were developed to address these limitations.

      As an FYI- the preservative here is only slightly soluble in water. You will require an additional step like mixing it with propylene
      glycol. You may look at the manufacturer’s recommendations for this. I think a more robust preservative may be better in this system, but I am biased to a specific set of preservatives ????

      • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by  KMRCSMiami.
      • KMRCSMiami

        Member
        March 7, 2023 at 1:14 pm

        Also, move your gums to the water phase as its water soluble. You may try sprinkling it, and using a homogenizer to get it into solution.

  • Abdullah

    Member
    March 7, 2023 at 9:32 pm

    Remove everything

    Just use BTMS, guar gum and preservative.

  • Marike

    Member
    March 15, 2023 at 1:22 am

    Just want to say thank you, I removed the Honey and it is amazing now

  • PhilGeis

    Member
    March 15, 2023 at 5:17 am

    Please pay attention to KMRCSMiami’s comment re/ preservation. You can do better.

    Not so sure “all natural” is defensible

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by  PhilGeis.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 3 months ago by  PhilGeis.

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