Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Addition order of SLES pearl concentrate to get maximum opacity or pearl effect?

  • Addition order of SLES pearl concentrate to get maximum opacity or pearl effect?

    Posted by abdullah on June 8, 2022 at 11:35 am

    I made this pearl shampoo

    Active surfactants
    SLES 4.7%
    CAPB 1.25%
    APG 1.25%
    SLES pearl 10%( this is SLES with EGDS or EGMS @ 28/10% actives i think)
    Xanthan gum 0.2%
    NACL 3.75%
    Water 
    Formalin 0.1%.
    Citric acid to pH 5.1 

    One version i made in this order

    Water, SLES, APG, CAPB, SLES pearl, xanthan gum, formalin, NACL

    Another version i made in this order 
    Water, SLES, APG, CAPB, xanthan gum, SLES pearl, formalin, NACL

    Both batches were 500g and mixed with stick blender.

    The second version when i added xanthan gum before SLES pearl was more white and opaque than first one. It seems like order of addition also has an impact on opacity or pearl effect.

    My question is: what is the best method or addition order of a pearl concentrate like this is shampoo to get maximum opacity or pearl effect?

    abdullah replied 1 year, 8 months ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • ketchito

    Member
    June 8, 2022 at 12:09 pm

    @Abdullah It’s always better to add xanthan gum at the start, where it has more water available, and you can use more mixing to disperse it without risk of aeration. Now, formulas thickened with high levels of NaCl tend to dramatically reduce viscosity in a warmer environment, so there’s a risk of sedimentation from your pearl (put a sample in the oven and see what happens).

  • abdullah

    Member
    June 8, 2022 at 1:26 pm

    ketchito said:

    @Abdullah It’s always better to add xanthan gum at the start, where it has more water available, and you can use more mixing to disperse it without risk of aeration.
    do you mean add xanthan gum to water before adding any surfactant?
    I am using inline homogenizer for large batches so aeration is not a big problem.
     Now, formulas thickened with high levels of NaCl tend to dramatically reduce viscosity in a warmer environment, so there’s a risk of sedimentation from your pearl (put a sample in the oven and see what happens).
    this is a good point. Temperature here now is the hottest it can get. I made these samples for this temperature. I will check them in cold temperature to see how thick they will become.

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