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a powder to cream formulation needs improvement…
I have made a prototype of powder to cream but the issue i face is excessive dryness and draginess….tried adding emollients and propylene glycol, glycerine but the formulation is too dry for the skin….
again i need to be very careful with selecting the correct ingredient as any thing that destabilizes my dry water phase immediately turns the product in to creamy mass.HOPE this question is better framed…. -
5 Replies
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Getting closer, but still a bit off.
For help regarding your product it is best if you list your Formula (using wt/wt% notation) completely. Then describe the issues and areas you feel it needs improvement.
If you read the thread on asking for Formulation advice, they give some examples on how to best frame your question.
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I’m not sure that this problem has a solution at all. If, as I suspect, you’ve managed to encapsulate/absorb a liquid foundation, I don’t think that there’s a way around the dry/draggy problem - the very ingredients that make it a powder are fighting against you.
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Evonik has materials that will make a “Powder to Cream” product. See http://www.health-and-beauty.com/fileadmin/all/cossma/ES/COS1108ES_14_ScientEvoniPowdertoCream.pdf
However these materials have large Minimum order quantities and are probably out of the reach of any account short of a Commercial account. I used this technology in a bronzer where I incorporated DHA for self-tanning. It worked great. -
Thanks Mr Mark for ur suggestion ,but i had tried my initial prototype based on evoniks suggested formulation(the link of which u have provided).Still the dryness persists.Can you suggest whether silica R 812 S or R 202 which would give me a stable dry water ?(I have tried with R 202)
Also upto what level of silica (hydrophobic ) would be enough for a stable formulation?(as dryness seems mainly due to hydrophobic silica) -
Try encapsulated oil without silica: http://www.ashland.com/products/captivates-encapsulates
Or, try a different oil absorbing material: like silicone dioxide - Zeofree PLUS 5191 from Huber, or calcium silicate - Hubersorb 600, also from Huber, or Polytrap polymer powder from Amcol.A last option is to think about the fact that dragginess is caused as much by particle morphology as it is by the chemical properties of the material. The solution if this is the problem is to get rid of the drag by adding microspheres, which act like ball bearings on skin.Note that it’s typical of suppliers to use their own materials in a starting/trial formula, even if competing materials from other suppliers will do a better job. Knowing which materials perform best in different types of formulations is a big part of a cosmetic chemist’s professional repertoire.
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