Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating $200 Benchmark Splitting

  • $200 Benchmark Splitting

    Posted by Formulator on March 19, 2023 at 6:28 pm

    Hi All,

    I’m currently working on a project that has a very trendy $200 eye cream as a benchmark. The product is visibly splitting into oil and water when pumped out of packaging.

    Emulsifier system is Heliofeel 22 (Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglycyceryl-3 Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin) by Lucas Meyer and Sodium Stearoyl Glutmate.

    I was wondering if other people have encountered instabilities with Heliofeel 22?

    I have a suspicion that Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate might also contribute to instability. I wonder if it has some surface activity as a highly polar part is combined with hydrophobic chains.

    This is the LOI:

    Aqua/Water/Eau, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Panthenol, Ethyl Oleate, Ethylhexyl Polyhydroxystearate, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Niacinamide, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Oleic Acid, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Silica, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Terminalia Arjuna Extract, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Maltodextrin, Sodium Phytate, Lecithin, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Alanyl Glutamine, Arginine, Oligopeptide-177, Sodium Chloride, Phenylalanine, Sisymbrium Irio Seed Oil.

    Formulator replied 6 months, 1 week ago 2 Members · 2 Replies
  • 2 Replies
  • philgeis

    March 20, 2023 at 5:17 am

    That is a pretty poor preservative system

    • Formulator

      March 25, 2023 at 6:49 am

      I agree, I have used a different preservative system.

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