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Scalp serum (O/W emulsion) FAIL! PLEASE HELP!
Phase A:
Distilled water (80%)
Herbal extract (5%) {extracted by 70% ethanol}
Phase B:
Wanult oil (1%)
Rose geranium E.O. (0.6%)
Tocopherol mixed (0.4%)
Symbiosolv Clear + (5%)
Phase C:
Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate (2%)
Niacinamide B3 (1.2%)
Pyridoxin HCl B6 (0.3%)
D Biotin B7 (0.5%)
Phase D:
Clear Xanthan gum (0.5%)
Acacia gum (0.5%)
Propanediol (2%)
Preservative:
Optiphen + (1%)
PROCEDURE:
1) Mix Phase A and Phase B thoroughly in two separate breakers, then combine to make the O/W emulsion.
2) Check the pH of the emulsion, should be around 6-6.5 for the vitamins to be effective. Add Phase C and stir. Check and adjust pH again to around 6.5.
3) Mix all the ingredients of Phase D together and gently add it to the emulsion to thicken it.
4) Later, add the preservative.
PROBLEM:
1) After few days for keeping the emulsion undisturbed, I can notice the oil droplets floating on the surface of the emulsion.
2) There is a darker slimy thing settled at the bottom of the beaker. I don’t know what it is?
Can anyone help? what went wrong?
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7 Replies
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In my humble opinion, far too complicated.
I started my company in 2006 and had two factories with exports globally and 90% Private Label revenue. And the product I formulated was called Hair Oil using just high quality plant oils with essential oils for fragrance.
And for me, it’s all about “trading down,” down to the local, the simple, the unrefined but raw and true.
Serum? Give me a break, it’s associated with blood.
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I would recommend adding xanthan and acacia earlier in the process, ideally before you add anything else- you are adding them after salts and that can inhibit full hydration. I’d reduce your tocopherol to 0.1% as well, it’s too high. You can also try adding just your oil phase to water (without the salts and polymers) and see how quickly that mixture separates. If it’s pretty fast you might need additional solubilizer or emulsifier- I’m not sure the walnut oil can be solubilized by the symbiosolv.
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hey, what salts are you referring to?
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Pretty much the entire phase C, but especially the Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate and Pyridoxine HCl
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I would apply @evchem2 suggestions.
Regarding the solubilizer, the manufacturer lists, under “Incompatibilities”: vegetable oils and cationic surfactants.
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Phase A:
Distilled water (80%) ok
Herbal extract (5%) {extracted by 70% ethanol} Should be ok
Phase B:
Wanult oil (1%) If this is a hair growth serum, you can use pumpkin seed oil at a higher percentage
Rose geranium E.O. (0.6%) Very strong concentration
Tocopherol mixed (0.4%) ok but you can use less but its great for hair growth
Symbiosolv Clear + (5%) Never used before but seems like a high amt and should have worked
Phase C:
Sodium Ascorbyl phosphate (2%) Never used but I use up to 15% l asorbic for exfoliation
Niacinamide B3 (1.2%) Love this ingredient, 2% and above is generally most effective
Pyridoxin HCl B6 (0.3%) Never used
D Biotin B7 (0.5%) Never formulated with biotin
Phase D:
Clear Xanthan gum (0.5%) Seems like a high percentage
Acacia gum (0.5%) Never used in hair care not sure if its too much
Propanediol (2%) Never used
Preservative:
Optiphen + (1%) Best in oil W/O and can be difficult to incorporate
You can simplify the formula depending on what you are trying to achieve. What is the main goal of the scalp serum? It looks like a hair growth serum.
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As the co-founder of Indochine Natural in 2022, I formulated a simple hair oil using Pomegranate seed oil, Castor oil, Sunflower Seed oil, Vitamin E, and a range of essential oils for a Private Label client. It sold very well. It was a lot easier to produce than what you proposed, plus it fitted what consumers want—it was all-natural.
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