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Azaleic Acid lotion formula: good or crappy?
Would this proposed lotion be a failure with the azaleic acid (AZA) crystallizing after the lotion cools?
I have looked over various prototype formulae of the azaleic acid producers: some have the AZA added to a heated water phase, some add it when the product is at 40C, some just add each ingredient at room temperature & mix it all together, so I am CLUELESS as to what to actually do for a lotion.
I do NOT have the ingredients to make a gel, I wish to make a lotion IF it’s possible.
The 10% AZA is to treat rosacea.
The AZA would be heated along with the other water phase ingredients to 75-80 Celsius. Oils phase would be heated as well to ensure everything’s dissolved and homogeneous.
Water Phase:
68% water (approx)
8% propylene glycol (I want to avoid the stickiness of glycerin, but I could do 50/50 with PG)
10% azaleic acid (powder form)
0.5% allantoin
0.2% sodium phytate
0.3% citric acid (50% sol’n) to get to pH 4.5 - 5
Oils Phase:
8% shea light ester
4% polawax emulsifier (cetearyl alcohol & Peg-20 stearate)
1% dimethicone (350 cs I think)
0.1% Vitamin E
0.3 % xanthan gum
Preservative when at 45 Celsius
0.5 % Germall
THANKS FOR ANY INPUT!!!
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2 Replies
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This is pushing the solubility limit for azelaic acid unless you raise the pH closer to neutral with a metal hydroxide. With a little more Polawax this should work. Xanthan gum will be dispersed into water first (NOT in the oil phase) then add AZA into water at temperature, adjust pH to 5.5 - 6.5, then proceed as planned and see what you get. I would add a little cetyl alcohol to mitigate the “soaping” from the PEG ester and improve stability at same time. Kudos to you for employing Germall as preservative.
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Thanks so much Matt!
I had forgotten to write in the cetyl alcohol in my formula (doh!!). I think I have run out of it, so I’ll use 0.5% brassica alcohol.
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