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Cream lip product issue
Hello!
Thank you all so much in advance for your help. I am having an issue with a creamy, oil-based lip product packaged in a glass vial/doe foot component. In some units, after the product cools, the wax seemingly crystallizes and shrinks away from the glass tube. I have tried using the doe foot to stir the product to remove this effect, but it comes back in some units. I had suspected this has to do with temperature and cooling, but I have done some tests and haven’t been able to figure out what the issue is. This is so disappointing because I love the way the formula feels, it does not happen to all units, but this looks like contamination even though it is not. I have attached a photo of worst case.
Formula:
PHASE A:
Marula Oil: 25.20%
Polymeric Emollient (Mango Butter Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer): 18.96%
Shea Oil: 18.44%
Polybutene: 21.81%
PHASE B:
Tripeptide (Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and) Tribehenin (and) Sorbitan Isostearate (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1) : 1.00%
Sumac Wax: 3.44%
Jojoba Esters 70: 3.41%
Tribehenin: 3.99%
Floral Wax: 1.58%
COOL DOWN PHASE:
Tocopherol: 0.75%
Rosehip Extract (Rosa canina Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Water, Citric Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate): 0.60%
Ginger Essential Oil: 0.10%
Stevia Sweetener (Coconut oil, Stevia): 0.10%
Preservative System ((Levulinic Acid (80%) (and) Sorbic Acid (5%) (and) Benzoic Acid (15%)): 0.32%
Botanical Colorant (Melia Azadirachta Extract (95%), Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Oil (5%)): 0.30%
METHOD:
1- Weight all ingredients in Phase A and add to container 1
2- Weight all ingredients in Phase B and add to container 2
3- Weight all ingredients in Cool Down Phase in container 3
4- Place Phase B - Container 2 on burner at 70°C and leave until ingredients are fully melted7- Keep heating Phase A + B at 70°C and leave until the mixture is fully homogenous, melted, and free of bubbles
8- Once the mixture is ready, turn off burner
9- Add Cool Down Phase while gently stirring
10- Proceed to filling system. Kettle Temp 57°C. Doser Temp 63°C.The glass vials are filled and left to cool at room temperature.
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1 Reply
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I am not well-versed in either hot-fill or color cosmetics, but I had a couple thoughts:
1. Are the glass containers warmed at all before being filled with product? Could you run them through a heat tunnel so they are not quite as cool when being filled? Maybe less of a temperature shock going from 63C to RT containers would help.
2. Are you selling in the US market? If yes, I would be very careful because your botanical extract (from Campo?) is not an approved colorant for cosmetics, let alone those in contact with the mouth. I would make very sure you have appropriate safety data for this formula.
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