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Improvement on leave in conditioner formula. Waxy feel
Hello everyone, new here.
I’ve been formulating for a year now so I’d consider myself quite a beginner and I need help with a formula, which im overall happy with, but it does feel slightly waxy between my fingers and I’m looking to ideally not feel that at all. Other than that it has good slip on the hair, very easy to detangle with and spreads easily
The basic formula is as follows:
77.5% water
8% aloe vera juice
3% glycerin
2% btms
1% seaweed extracts
1% essential oils
2% esters
1% plant oils
1% tocopherol
1% plant keratin
0.5% cationic guar
Any pointers would be Greatly appreciated, Ive tried studying a lot of formulas and really like Oway ones, just as reference.
Thank you 🙂
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7 Replies
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*Forgot to put that it is BTMS 25
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Notably absent is a preservative, but that is a subject for another day. Depending on the nature of those “Esters” (cetyl palmitate perhaps?) there does not appear to be anything “waxy” in there other than the 1.50% cetearyl alcohol in the BTMS-25, which is not much at all.
Are you sure you were not trippin’ at the time? ????
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There is 1% preservative, sorry, I didnt note it.
I might be a bit too critical with it. I might be expecting that “soft” layer that conditioner leave on hair when I’m not using any silicones or polymers, correct me if im wrong
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That soft layer that conditioners leave, that glide is due to emollients, which are usually silicones, esters or hydrocarbons. You have none of them (and very little cationic surfactant, which also help to have a smoother surface). I believe the oils you have in your formula are vegetable oils, which don’t feel as nice on hair (although, you don’t have much of those either).
You also have a huge amount of Aloe Vera, which doesn’t really do much, but increasing your risk of contamination.
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I will note and try each one of the things you have mentiones and see how it feels, thank you very much.
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05% of guar cat is too much. Increasing the plant oils/butters and cationic emulsifiers should do the trick. Although guar cat is touted, in practice its very hard to balance and it leaves an extremley awful feel to hair used in concentrations above .1% although some people have had success. And mixing it in veggie glycerin can help immensely.
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seaweeds can also cause hair drag depending on what exactly you’re using, for example the clear bioseed weed you can get from lotion crafters is water based so it won’t cause drag. Keratin can also leave an undesireable feel to hair in leave in conditioners. I usually use no more than 2% but balance it with extra BTMS and oils like camellia which is silicone like in its lightness but very expensive. Howver, you only need under 10% in any product for a nice feel and effect. 10% isn’t a lot for this oil due to its extreme lightness.
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