Butter in gel moisturizer - Chemists Corner

Tagged: butter-in-gel, innovative-product, ipcs, unique-skinfeel, unusual-moisturizer

Formulating

Butter in gel moisturizer

Posted by Anca_Formulator on July 17, 2022 at 1:48 am

Hi again,
I just learned about this intriguing product: butter in gel moisturizer (IPCS video).
How stable is this compared to an emulsion? Curious about how the phases ‘co-habitate’ in this from a chemistry perspective.

Hard to preserve?

https://youtu.be/LPisi5otlYc

Anca_Formulator replied 2 years, 6 months ago 3 Members · 8 Replies
8 Replies

Anca_Formulator

Member
July 17, 2022 at 4:09 pm

Unfortunately the formula is not included in the video but you can request it from IPCS. I’m not sure it’s ok to share it here, so I will just say that the ‘magic’ ingredient here is Acticire MB ((Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3) at 6%.
MarkBroussard

Member
July 17, 2022 at 4:21 pm

Acticire MB allows you to incorporate some water into an anhydrous formula. All that’s going on here is brute-force jamming the ingredients together. I doubt that it would be long-term stable compared to an emulsion.
Anca_Formulator

Member
July 17, 2022 at 6:19 pm

@MarkBroussard: That’s helpful to know. These ‘unusual’ textures are intriguing to me, but maybe there is a good (stability) reason there are not a lot of them out there.
Acticire is used here in a different way that supplier recommends, i.e. up to 5% Acticire can incorporate up to 15% water soluble ingredients. This product is almost 80% water.

What are some unique textures you have seen in the natural world? I mean ones that work
MarkBroussard

Member
July 17, 2022 at 6:50 pm

@Anca_Formulator

Yes, that is why they add the gelling agent to the water phase … to slow the migration of water from the matrix.

I find Sunflower Oleosomes interesting to work with.
Paprik

Member
July 17, 2022 at 7:03 pm

Here’s the formula and method
Anca_Formulator

Member
July 17, 2022 at 11:28 pm

Thank you @paprik. I recall you took some training from IPCS, did you make these types of ‘funky’ products as part of the program, or afterwards?
Paprik

Member
July 18, 2022 at 7:05 pm

No worries @Anca_Formulator

Nope, we did not make any of those.
Our practical was - Emulsion/Skin cream (they gave you formula), Surfactant with Sulfate (they gave you formula), Light lotion (your own formula), Sulfate free Face wash (your own formula), Conditioner (your own formula) and Reverse Engineering of their sample. They do supply ingredients for all of those.

However, you do need to make a looooot of formulas. Just formulas .., according to their guides and builds. From easy creams, to DHA tanning lotions, surfactant systems, SPF, products with actives, hair care (waxes, hair dyes … ). There is a lot to do.

Sorry if I took my answer too far
Anca_Formulator

Member
July 18, 2022 at 7:13 pm

@Paprik That sounds like a lot of practice, which is good .