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Formulating a serum
Hello, my name is josua
i want to ask, can you correct my formula, I’m still a beginner in formulating. if something is wrong, please let me know
ingredients
percentage (w/w%)
distilled water 82 vegetable glycerin 3 niacinamide 5 saliguard ehgp 1 centella asiatica extract 3,5 mulberry extract 3 allantoin 0,5 zinc pca 1 carbomer 0,3 xanthan gum 0,7 Citric acid solution 50% q.s total =100 -
8 Replies
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hi
if you use 0.3% Carbomer you Propoply will not need any Xanthan gum in the formulation (of course depending on the viscosity you want to get). it will increase the stickiness of the Product.
you although need a Neutralization agent For the Carbomer.
depending on the Carbomer you are using you need to get the PH of the water phase to 7 and above so that the thickening effect occurs otherwise it will not help with Viscosity build-up. Most Carbomers can be neutralized with NaOH or TEA ask your supplier what works best for your type as well as the optimum ph range.
after Nutraliziation of the Carbomer, you can adjust ph back to what you need it to be.
if you like you can have a look at how to do it and what you can get from it on a guidance formulation. (please be aware that there are several methods how to incorporate carbomer into your formulation and it differs by type so its just one way)
F-0161(EU) 98% Natural Do-It-Yourself Night Serum (ulprospector.com)
hope that helpsTobias
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Zinc PCA will break carbomer. Carbomes aren’t electrolyte resistant.
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I would say too much gelling agent, 0.2-0.3 of your preferable gum or gums would be enough to give your formula a good body. And maybe check allantoin solubility.
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ngarayeva001 said:Zinc PCA will break carbomer. Carbomes aren’t electrolyte resistant.
so, I have to replace carbomer and xanthan gum
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Pattsi said:I would say too much gelling agent, 0.2-0.3 of your preferable gum or gums would be enough to give your formula a good body. And maybe check allantoin solubility.
ok thanks for your comment, and i will try to reduce the thickening agent
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Gordof said:hi
if you use 0.3% Carbomer you Propoply will not need any Xanthan gum in the formulation (of course depending on the viscosity you want to get). it will increase the stickiness of the Product.
you although need a Neutralization agent For the Carbomer.
depending on the Carbomer you are using you need to get the PH of the water phase to 7 and above so that the thickening effect occurs otherwise it will not help with Viscosity build-up. Most Carbomers can be neutralized with NaOH or TEA ask your supplier what works best for your type as well as the optimum ph range.
after Nutraliziation of the Carbomer, you can adjust ph back to what you need it to be.
if you like you can have a look at how to do it and what you can get from it on a guidance formulation. (please be aware that there are several methods how to incorporate carbomer into your formulation and it differs by type so its just one way)
F-0161(EU) 98% Natural Do-It-Yourself Night Serum (ulprospector.com)
hope that helpsTobias
Thank you for the advice, but for pH neutralization I only have sodium bicarbonate and citric acid, can I use these two ingredients to replace NaoH and TEA?
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At 3% Glycerin in a water-based formula, this is going to be a very sticky concoction. Perhaps reduce the Glycerin to 0.5% to 1% maximum.
As noted, the Sodium PCA will break the Carbomer gel. To thicken, you can use Xanthan Gum solo, or better yes, a higher molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate.
The Centella and Mulberry extracts … you can drop those down to 1%, but that’s more of a cost issue. If you can afford 3% in your formulas, no issue.
To dissolve the Allantoin … heat the water to 50C - 55C, but no higher. If you heat to higher levels, you may well get recrystallization of the Allantoin.
Overall, it’s a nice, clean formula … good job.
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MarkBroussard said:@josua
At 3% Glycerin in a water-based formula, this is going to be a very sticky concoction. Perhaps reduce the Glycerin to 0.5% to 1% maximum.
As noted, the Sodium PCA will break the Carbomer gel. To thicken, you can use Xanthan Gum solo, or better yes, a higher molecular weight Sodium Hyaluronate.
The Centella and Mulberry extracts … you can drop those down to 1%, but that’s more of a cost issue. If you can afford 3% in your formulas, no issue.
To dissolve the Allantoin … heat the water to 50C - 55C, but no higher. If you heat to higher levels, you may well get recrystallization of the Allantoin.
Overall, it’s a nice, clean formula … good job.
thanks for your help
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