Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating Formulating

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 14, 2020 at 5:04 pm

    @ttk102360 not enough information and too many reasons to go into here.

  • OldPerry

    Member
    December 14, 2020 at 7:53 pm
  • suswang8

    Member
    December 14, 2020 at 11:08 pm

    I would recommend a better headline/title as well :)

  • ttk102360

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 7:14 am

    Sorry, I forgot to copy the formula. I want to make a formula with a high extract content and a high moisturizing ingredients.

    Water                                                                                     56.5%
    Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Acer saccharum Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract and Butylene glycol                         10%
    Propanediol                                                                                8%
    HA( 1% solution)                                                                         5%
    Glycerin                                                                                      5%
    Water & Helichrysum italicum extract & Phenoxyethanol             1%

    Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone                                            2.5%
    Silica                                                                                           2%
    Dicaprylyl Carbonate                                                                   2%
    Dimethyl Isosorbide                                                                    2%
    Parlem 4                                                                                      5%
    Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin                                  0.9%

  • Pattsi

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 7:48 am

    ttk102360 said:

    When I stir the cream sample. High viscosity at stirring. After a day, it reduces viscosity. Let me ask why is that. Thanks

    meaning your formula is not stable.

  • ttk102360

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 1:37 pm

    Pattsi said:

    ttk102360 said:

    When I stir the cream sample. High viscosity at stirring. After a day, it reduces viscosity. Let me ask why is that. Thanks

    meaning your formula is not stable.

    I mean, when I finished stirring the sample, the viscosity of the sample was high. After 1 day, its viscosity decreased (There is no delamination). I don’t know why

  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 4:54 pm

    Aha! @ttk102360 …that’s much better. Heres the problem: you are formulating a high internal phase (H.I.P.) w/o emulsion and you a) do not have a mineral salt to stabilize so ADD NaCl at 1.00% to the water phase; and b) adding a high MW polymer to the disperse phase is a recipe for failure, so DEL the hyaluronate; and c) you have way too much polyol for a stable w/o emulsion like this so REDUCE that glycerin & propylene glycol way down. What you experienced is the phenomenon where inverse-phase emulsions exhibit a viscosity response to sheer (homogenizer, right?) but that viscosity will diminish due to the entropic instability of your formula due to chemistry. 

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 6:41 pm

    Oh Abil EM 90… as chemicalmatt said, you need salt. You also need a second emulsifier and countless trials and errors. It’s not an easy emulsifier. It also prefers silicones in the oil phase. Replace Propanediol with sodium lactate. It works well in w/o. Not 1.5-2% not 8.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 15, 2020 at 6:42 pm

    Also, how exactly do you process it? W/o are very sensitive to process

  • ttk102360

    Member
    December 16, 2020 at 7:51 am

    Aha! @ttk102360 …that’s much better. Heres the problem: you are formulating a high internal phase (H.I.P.) w/o emulsion and you a) do not have a mineral salt to stabilize so ADD NaCl at 1.00% to the water phase; and b) adding a high MW polymer to the disperse phase is a recipe for failure, so DEL the hyaluronate; and c) you have way too much polyol for a stable w/o emulsion like this so REDUCE that glycerin & propylene glycol way down. What you experienced is the phenomenon where inverse-phase emulsions exhibit a viscosity response to sheer (homogenizer, right?) but that viscosity will diminish due to the entropic instability of your formula due to chemistry. 

    Thank you. Part a and b, I will change according to your opinion. Part c, I know polyol too much, but I try to do so, this formula is specifically for people who use a lot of corticosteroids. I tested it with many volunteers. Because, I want to change emulsifier, problematic formulation. Before, I used Seppic’s easynox. After I remake the sample, I’ll give you the results

  • ttk102360

    Member
    December 16, 2020 at 7:53 am

    Oh Abil EM 90… as chemicalmatt said, you need salt. You also need a second emulsifier and countless trials and errors. It’s not an easy emulsifier. It also prefers silicones in the oil phase. Replace Propanediol with sodium lactate. It works well in w/o. Not 1.5-2% not 8.

    Thank you. I will change according to your opinion. I will give you the results later.

  • ngarayeva001

    Member
    December 16, 2020 at 7:57 am

    Is there a reason why it should be w/o? Those emulsions work against rules of thermodynamics (well all emulsions are but w/o more than others) and hard to make stable even without loads of additives. 

  • Pattsi

    Member
    December 18, 2020 at 10:22 am

    ttk102360 said:

     

    Thank you. Part a and b, I will change according to your opinion. Part c, I know polyol too much, but I try to do so, this formula is specifically for people who use a lot of corticosteroids. I tested it with many volunteers. Because, I want to change emulsifier, problematic formulation. Before, I used Seppic’s easynox. After I remake the sample, I’ll give you the results

    Are you sure HIP cream will not worsen their conditions?

    I don’t think you can get a long-termed stability with stirring.

  • ttk102360

    Member
    January 18, 2021 at 4:30 am

    Aha! @ttk102360 …that’s much better. Heres the problem: you are formulating a high internal phase (H.I.P.) w/o emulsion and you a) do not have a mineral salt to stabilize so ADD NaCl at 1.00% to the water phase; and b) adding a high MW polymer to the disperse phase is a recipe for failure, so DEL the hyaluronate; and c) you have way too much polyol for a stable w/o emulsion like this so REDUCE that glycerin & propylene glycol way down. What you experienced is the phenomenon where inverse-phase emulsions exhibit a viscosity response to sheer (homogenizer, right?) but that viscosity will diminish due to the entropic instability of your formula due to chemistry. 

    @chemicalmatt, I did it, the formula has stabilized a lot. I want to know why add NaCl and del HA, it helps to stabilize the formula in this case. Thanks, for your help. Is NaCl stable for all emulsified formulations?

  • Bill_Toge

    Member
    January 18, 2021 at 7:16 pm
    sodium chloride increases the surface tension of the water phase, and reduces its tendency to aggregate, which stabilises W/O emulsions; it’s not necessary in O/W, and if anything is more likely to destabilise it
    magnesium salts do the job better still, as they’ve got a +2 charge on them rather than +1
  • chemicalmatt

    Member
    January 19, 2021 at 8:09 pm

    …echoing what Bill Toge said. ’nuff said.

  • AndrewSeel

    Member
    March 27, 2021 at 11:54 am

    @Bill_Toge I have a zinc oxide w/o emulsion with low HLB emulsifiers, but adding small percentage of Polysorbate 60 has improved the texture!

    Is it ok to have Polysorbate 60 in w/o formulation?? 

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