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Formulation help for Natural sulphate,paraben, silicone free shampoo
Hi everyone!
I have been trying to make a natural shampoo using Hydrosols !
My formulation is -
Rosemary hydrosol- 25 %
Frankincense hydrosol- 25%
Glycerin-3%
Sodium PCA - 2%
PQ10- 0.5%Lauryl glucoside- 14%
Sodium cocoyl isethionate powder(85%active)- 5 %
Decyl glucoside- 10%
CAPB- 7 %Glycol stearate- 1.5%
Glycol disterate-1.5%
Oil- 0.3%
Hydrolysed milk protein- 1%
Hydrolysed soya protein- 1 %
Hydrolysed rice protein- 1%
Fragrance (oil soluble) - 0.5%
Citric acid- Ph balance
Geogard ECT preservative- 1%Everything seems fine…thickness is desirable,forms are ok!
But seems like my products is not stable
After 2-3 days I observe fine lines …seems like product is getting apart slowly…what may be the reason??
Someone please help me out!! -
11 Replies
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Ph - 6
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The biggest problem is this, you are making a shampoo. The purpose of a shampoo is to remove things from the hair. Anything in the formula that is not helping to remove things from the hair is leading to a worse performing shampoo. So…
Step 1 - Remove everything in your formula that isn’t necessary for CLEANING the hair or stabilizing the formula. Also, use Deionized water instead of hydrosols. This would include:
Rosemary hydrosol
Frankincense hydrosolGlycerin
Sodium PCA
Oil
Hydrolyzed milk protein
Hydrolyzed soya protein
Hydrolyzed rice protein
Glycol stearate
Glycol distearate
PQ-10Step 2 - Adjust the pH of the formula to the proper level which should be pH=5 (or less)Geogard ECT is made up of organic acids which do not work as preservatives unless the formula has a pH of around 5.0. At pH 6.0 your product is not preserved.
Step 3 - Test the formulaIf this is stable, then you can add small amounts of the non-functional, claims ingredients like protein & hydrosols. And you can add in PQ-10 for a little conditioning & Glycol stearate for a pearlizing effect.
You have to decide what you are making. Do you want to make a product that works, or do you want to have a list of natural ingredients that are blended together but don’t actually clean the hair?
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..what Perry said, plus I think your “fine lines” problem can be isolated to
a) having both EGMS and EGDS in the same formula plus too much of both.
b) having an anionic amino acid derivative (PCA) and a cationic polymer (PQ10) in the same formula
c) if that CAPB is 7.0% of the standard 30% material you have insufficient hydrotrope to maintain solution integrity of both the glycol stearate(s) and the oils. I have to wonder how this would remain stable for even a day?
As Perry suggests, REDUCE all of those proteins and oils to <0.10%, then delete NaPCA, glyceryl distearate and glycerin (the MOST common mistake in shampoo formulation in this Forum - please stop adding glycerin to these products EVERYONE!) and you may have a winner here. -
Thank you so much for your valuable comments
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Perry said:The biggest problem is this, you are making a shampoo. The purpose of a shampoo is to remove things from the hair. Anything in the formula that is not helping to remove things from the hair is leading to a worse performing shampoo. So…
Step 1 - Remove everything in your formula that isn’t necessary for CLEANING the hair or stabilizing the formula. Also, use Deionized water instead of hydrosols. This would include:
Rosemary hydrosol
Frankincense hydrosolGlycerin
Sodium PCA
Oil
Hydrolyzed milk protein
Hydrolyzed soya protein
Hydrolyzed rice protein
Glycol stearate
Glycol distearate
PQ-10Step 2 - Adjust the pH of the formula to the proper level which should be pH=5 (or less)Geogard ECT is made up of organic acids which do not work as preservatives unless the formula has a pH of around 5.0. At pH 6.0 your product is not preserved.
Step 3 - Test the formula
If this is stable, then you can add small amounts of the non-functional, claims ingredients like protein & hydrosols. And you can add in PQ-10 for a little conditioning & Glycol stearate for a pearlizing effect.
You have to decide what you are making. Do you want to make a product that works, or do you want to have a list of natural ingredients that are blended together but don’t actually clean the hair?
What if I use DMDMH as a preservative.. what should be the pH of shampoo then
Also…this shampoo have ASM Of 19… should I reduced it? -
DMDMH - absolutely a better choice and pH stable throughout your effective range. 19% total solids is not too high for a good shampoo, and if you increase the amphoteric while reducing/eliminating those other materials, you will have a much better product overall - and less expensive too.
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@B@Bhartisaroha Indeed, DMDM hydantoin is a better choice, since you have too many ingredients that increase risk of contamination, and Geogard ECT alone wouldn’t be enough. Keep in mind that you also need an antifungal for broad spectrum preservation (you can use Glydant Plus or similar). Also, you have both Glycol stearate and Glycol disterate at very high levels with nothing to tabilize them. Do you want your product to be opaque/pearlized? If not, you can remove them, since they could be impairing stability of your product.
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ketchito said:@B@Bhartisaroha Indeed, DMDM hydantoin is a better choice, since you have too many ingredients that increase risk of contamination, and Geogard ECT alone wouldn’t be enough. Keep in mind that you also need an antifungal for broad spectrum preservation (you can use Glydant Plus or similar). Also, you have both Glycol stearate and Glycol disterate at very high levels with nothing to tabilize them. Do you want your product to be opaque/pearlized? If not, you can remove them, since they could be impairing stability of your product.
Yes I want my product to be opaque..at what percentage should I use EGMS?
Or should I use EGDS alone? -
@Bhartisaroha You can just stay with one of them (either EGMS or EGDS) at max. 1.5%. If you want your product to have a pearl look, you need to carefully control the cooling process. You could alternatively use a ready-made opacifier or pearlized, which won’t need much stabilization. For increased stability, you could add some Carbopol.
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@chemicalmatt, I know humectants are useless in rinse of products but glycerin really helps with hydrating polyquaternim 10 and guars. Is there any other way to hydrate polyquat 10?
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My 2 cents, have you calculated the actives in your formula?
The active in shampoo should be between 10-15 as I’ve read but yours is much higher than that and could be irritating in the long run.
* Lauryl glucoside- 14% .. active 50-60% =7.7
* Sodium cocoyl isethionate - 5% .. active 85% =4.25
* Decyl glucoside- 10% .. active 51-53% =5.2
* CAPB- 7 % .. active %30 =2.1
7.7+4.25+5.2+2.1= 19.25Your formula has around about 20% actives which is more suitable for body wash
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