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Finding correct INCI name
Hello chemists,
Does anyone know the correct INCI name (if one exists) of the potassium salt of seabuckthorn oil (Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil)? Based on other oils, intuition tells me it would be Potassium seabuckthornate, but I would like a good source.
I can find no INCI name in our set of books (11e, 2006). Google has proven equally unhelpful. Can anyone help with a newer edition or know this answer? I haven’t found anything in the CTFA (16e, 2016) or the US pharmacopeia yet either; though in those books I may be searching an incorrect term as I have never had to use them yet.
Thanks, RDchemist
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5 Replies
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Can’t your supplier provide a name?
I searched the PCPC Buyer’s Guide but didn’t find that exact compound.
Perhaps this list of front matter from the latest INCI Dictionary which explains how names are created will help.
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This material was made in-lab by saponifying seabuckthorn oil with potassium hydroxide.
I have never used a material not found in the INCI dictionary and handbook. Based on the the following copied from FDA:
§701.3 Designation of ingredients
Identification of Ingredients by Name
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The name established by the commissioner as specified in § 701.30.
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The name adopted for the ingredient as listed in:
(a) CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
(b) United States Pharmacopeia
(c) National Formulary
(d) Food Chemical Codex
(e) USAN and the USP Dictionary of Drug Names -
The name generally recognized by consumers
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The chemical or technical name or description
Could I reasonably list only “seabuckthorn oil” or perhaps “Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil” as a criteria of the 3rd option? Would “Saponified Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil” be a more accurate generally recognized name?
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I take a different approach with INCI names. In Malaysia we need to Notify products online with the Cosmetics section of the Ministry of health. My starting point is always their online INCI database of accepatable ingredients and INCI names. If it is not on this database, the Notification cannot proceed. One could go through the process of having them add a new ingredient, but not a hassle I would want to take on.
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if the reaction product doesn’t have an INCI name, or a CAS number, or any other formal identification, your best bet is to list it on the label as Potassium Hydroxide and Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil: i.e. the starting materials of the saponification reaction
by doing that, you also avoid the issue around the fact the exact quantity of reaction products is unknown, and possibly variable from batch to batch too
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@Bill_Toge Potassium Hydroxide already has to be listed so this is probably the way we’ll go.
The total material before or after in any case is well below 1% so I don’t anticipate any problems coming from ingredient order.
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