Home Cosmetic Science Talk Formulating General Requests / Opportunities Looking For Cosmetic Chemist For Cannibis Infused Cosmetics in Cali

  • Looking For Cosmetic Chemist For Cannibis Infused Cosmetics in Cali

    Posted by DCan on February 22, 2017 at 2:43 am

    Hello,
    I am currently in the start up phase of developing a skincare line infused with Cannibis, and I am looking for a R&D Chemist to work with on developing a formulas for my product line. I would love someone who has developed cannibis infused products before or is extremely interested in developing such products. 

    MarkBroussard replied 7 years ago 7 Members · 41 Replies
  • 41 Replies
  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 3:54 am

    There are various Cannibis-related ingredients.  When you say Cannibis, what specifically are you referring to …. Hemp Seed Oil, Cannabidiol … ?

  • johnb

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 7:49 am

    What are the attributes of cannabis derived ingredients that you feel will be useful in cosmetic products?

  • Silvie

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 12:03 pm

    Just for curious, i can´t help you.
    I have tried hemp cold presed seed oil onto the skin and for eating. It´s not the same than infusing Cannabis  Sativa or Cannabis Indica or Cannabis ruderalis in any kind of oil or solvent (i have done it too) The purposes and results are differents. In Spain, Cannabis infused (Cannabidiol, CBD, THC…) is used for some kind of pain, or medical use, or other purposes, not for beauty. What are your products for?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    February 22, 2017 at 1:13 pm

    I have consulted on several of these lines. I stress CONSULTED since the signature raw material (CBD Extract) is still a schedule one product in my state.
    The challenges are multifold. First off, there are many initial studies that purport an action of CBD but they have not yet been followed up on to a great extent. So (as is the case in many products) you must turn a blind eye to claims substantiation. Secondly, many of the assigned claims encroach upon the OTC monographs. While the Federal Government is not currently over ruling the States on the legality of the products, the FDA still has authority over OTC drugs. In fact in Washington State, the FDA has recently exercised this control.
    As far as Formulating, these products are not terribly difficult. The client MUST use a tested and standardized sample of the CBD Extract. The best products use a standardized CO2 Extract diluted in a carrier oil. This best facilitates the calculation and delivery of a metered dosage of the proposed active. Some lines use the CBD Oil (in Formulating, you can treat it as Hemp Seed Oil for all intents and purposes) but in my experience, the lines that use the oil are more positioned in the theoretical skin benefits than any drug like activity.
    Unless the poster wants to do the actual lab work and have someone advise on this, it is critical that they use a California-based Formulator. The actives in this case can not be shipped across state lines.

  • DCan

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 8:20 am

    Hello,
    Sorry for the late follow ups. I am looking to formulate products with CBD oil. Not the hemp CBD. Cannibis has antioxidants, which are great for skincare products. The oil also treats inflammation with Acne, excema, psoriasis. I am looking to start a full line of skicare from facial cleansers, exfoliators, mask, Oils, serums etc. 

  • DCan

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 8:26 am

    Also @Microformulation are you based in California?

  • johnb

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 9:21 am

    Because of the legislative restrictions on these products it is a very small market. It worth anyone’s time and effort to formulate anything new and for any marketer to sell them?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 8, 2017 at 11:07 am

    I am not based in California. On the lines I consulted on it was by long distance. I can not Formulate as the materials are not legal in my State,

  • MarkBroussard

    Member
    March 9, 2017 at 12:15 am

    @DCan:

    Do you know if your CBD is derived from Industrial Hemp or is it derived from Medicinal Marijuana Hemp?

    If the latter, do you have a THC assay on the CBD you plan on using?

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 9, 2017 at 1:46 am

    CBD is derived from Medical marijuana. Certain strains have a higher CBD to THC ratio (4:1 I believe). CBD has many purported effects, many of which are just now being examined in human trials. Many of the skin care claims are still poorly studied (single small study NIH studies) but I imagine as time goes on they will have larger samplings.

    I have consulted via distance since it is illegal for me to possess the actual raw materials. Most CBD sources are CO2 extracts diluted into an oil base so pretty easy to formulate. The real issues are shifting regulations (in some States they are practically writing them as they go), issues with encroaching on OTC monographs (the FDA will not overstep the state laws for medical/recreational use but will enforce OTC regs) and the still developing studies of efficacy.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 9, 2017 at 5:00 am

    Been there. Done that. Zero effect. 

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 9, 2017 at 12:42 pm

    @BelassiI can see your point. Many of the studies are small or single subject studies. I am also waiting for more in-depth validated studies.

  • DCan

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 2:52 pm

    Hi @MarkBroussard I will be using CBD not derived from hemp. @Belassi have you worked with such lines? I would love to know your opinion on the cannibis cosmetic market?

  • belassi

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 3:19 pm

    I can’t yet legally sell such a product but there are various small companies producing products for “quiet” sale. I designed a fast-absorbing cream with 10% alcohol-extracted THC/CBD. The plant was high potency and 50% indica. Tried it on a couple of old people with arthritis. Had no effect on pain so I ceased the experiment.

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 5:21 pm

    Belassi, currently there is a legal vacuum in Spain regarding private cannabis clubs. Near my work there is one where I participate and they make an ointment based on decaboxylated CBD (different extracts), capsaicin and essential oil of gaultheria procumbens, cinnamomum camphora and menthol among other ingredients. I have to say about my experience and other people, it works for muscle and joint pains. The question would be whether it is due to cannabis or it is due to the other ingredients, or it is due to all of them.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 6:51 pm

    @BelassiI can see your point. Many of the studies are small or single subject studies. I am also waiting for more in-depth validated studies.

    I have helped design several muscle pain relief products but they used typical counter-irritants (Menthol, Eucalyptus) in addition to the CBD Oil.

    As I say always, the jury is still out. I believe as these products are legalized on a wider scale in the US, larger more validated studies will e conducted.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 6:57 pm

    In my opinion it’s the other ingredients. Here in Mexico they sell “peyote balm” which supposedly contains peyote. Maybe it does, at 0.01%. But the active ingredient, as I can easily tell by the smell, is salicylate. Still, it might be a good marketing ploy. 

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 7:29 pm

    yes, i think marketing ploy is very important when you sell something (but is more important be realistic and not exaggerating).
    I am going to propose that they make an ointment with the same ingredients but without the derivatives of cannabis. Although this would be only an empirical experiment and not one based on any scientific study. I guess they would not want because as they sell and defend the benefits of cannabis, what would happen If they realize that the ointment works the same without cannabis? Haha

    And about salycilate, is it listed in the INCI? i make this question because I’m allergic to salicylic acid, I often wonder if that compound is not listed in some cosmetics I use what could happen. I do not know if it is possible that this ingredient is not listed on any label.

  • Microformulation

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 8:00 pm

    It is usually listed as Methyl salicylate or Wintergreen oil.

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 8:23 pm

    Thanks for your reply. I think I misunderstood my question, I have allergy to acetylsalicylic acid (aspirin) I think that just as I have this allergy to this compound, it can be extended to its derivatives, even put onto the skin.
    I will be careful about Methyl salicylate.

    I am confused and surprised. This ointment has essential oil of wintergreen, Methyl salicylate! I have to say that I have not noticed any allergy symptoms but I will stop using it, for this reason and for others of which I am realizing now.
    I am grateful that you helped me to discover this.

    Another question would be whether it is possible that some cosmetic or personal care product may have a small amount of salicylic acid and is not in the INCI.

  • belassi

    Member
    March 14, 2017 at 8:37 pm

    You are right to be careful. I had a very unpleasant experience a little while ago after using “Icy Hot” a product labelled as containing “menthol” but which was actually methyl salicylate. I had absorbed sufficient through the skin to cause a toxic reaction. The capsaicin (chile pepper extract) is supposed to have a pain-killing effect. I really doubt that including cannabis derivatives in a topical product will work as a pain killer.

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 15, 2017 at 2:14 pm

    ointment ingredients:
    Hemp seed oil, Caprylic / capric triglycerides, Copernicia cerifera, cannabis extracts CBD (futura 75) & THC (Northern Lights), capsaicin, essential oils of gaultheria procumbens, cinnamomum camphora, rosmarinus officinalis, menthol.

    Belassi, i´ve seen the effect “Icy hot”  that you are referring to, happens in this ointment i thought it is due to cinnamomum camphora and menthol, not to wintergreen (gaultheria). I have to say i love the smell of this liniment.
    I never expected salicylic acid, salicylate or others could be gaultheria procumbens derivatives. I knew about Salix alba :)

    DCan, But if you want infused CBD not from hemp but from Cannabis I or S, you´ll also get THC. I don´t know if THC for beauty is appropiate. Maybe microorganisms onto the skin will be very happy :) Or you get it without THC? how? Do you separate it somehow? Or are you going to use THC as well?

  • johnb

    Member
    March 15, 2017 at 3:06 pm

    You seem to be ignoring capsaicin as a source of skin irritation. Remember this material is the active principle of the chili pepper and even minute amounts applied to the skin can produce profuse irritation, burning and erythema.

    As a point of fact, gaultheria oil (wintergreen oil) comprises over 90% methyl salicylate and Cinnamonum camphora oil contains about 50% camphor. The product you describe will have a very strong fragrance redolent of a sports locker room. Similar formulations have been available (in the UK, at least) for about 100 years or more for the relief of pain from sports injuries, arthritis and muscular pain.

    CBD & THC are very bulky molecules and I am extremely doubtful that they will have any effect at all when applied to the skin. The way to find out is to produce samples with and without the materials in question.

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 15, 2017 at 8:06 pm

    This is exactly how it smells :) i used it because my horrible neck and back pain, and after swimming i put this and it was very relaxing and pleasuring, the icy-hot results recomfortable. The pain down.
     
    “Gaultheria oil (wintergreen oil) comprises over 90% methyl salicylate” this amount is too much for an allergic person to this compound
    “You seem to be ignoring capsaicin as a source of skin irritation.”  This must be the very very hot sensation too.

    I do not know if I ask them to make me one without cannabis, salicylic, and capsaicin. I would try it but I can not be the guinea pig, I need something that works for sure.
    I need a cream without methyl salicylate that works, under prescription now. I need to take aspirin tests again, maybe I no longer have intolerance.
    I will discover many things through this thread :)

  • Silvie

    Member
    March 16, 2017 at 9:43 am

    Hi again, sorry I´m turning this topic around and only for curiosity to see ingredientes I am looking for similar ointments without the derivatives of cannabis and indeed, in Spain they also exist for a long time.

    I am realizing something that I have not taken into account until now. While this balm with cannabis costs 100 gr. X €, a similar one without cannabis costs X:3 €. If we do not know for sure if the most expensive ingredient in the formula actually works … It’s a very big price difference.

    DCan, in Spain for example 25 gr. of hemp cost Y €, 25 gr of cannabis (sativa, for example) 38xY €. If you want to extract only CBD it is cheaper to make it from hemp, If you want it with THC will raise the price a lot (?). Do you have any assay about the benefits of THC on the skin for beauty? I’m just asking to learn.

    I think it’s true that there are not enough studies on cannabis and less for beauty, but I think if no one cares about this substance, if no one talks about it or test it … etc, there will be fewer studies yet!

    thanks, greetings

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