colors2

Article by: Perry Romanowski

While there are literally thousands of different types of cosmetic products, there are actually only 10 different types of cosmetic formulas. Here is a brief overview of those types including what they are, how they’re made and when you might use them. As a formulating chemist, you should make it a point to learn to make each type (even if your company currently doesn’t make these particular products). colors2

10 Cosmetic Product Forms

The basic categories for cosmetic formulas include
1. Solutions
2. Creams / Emulsions
3. Lotions
4. Ointments / Pastes
5. Suspensions
6. Tablets
7. Powders
8. Gels
9. Sticks
10. Aerosols

Solution Cosmetics

These are the simplest type of cosmetic formulas and are used for a wide range of products such as shampoos, body wash, hand cleansers, colognes, etc. They are homogeneous mixtures of soluble ingredients. To make them you simply fill your container with the main diluent (usually water) then mix the rest of the ingredients into it. Sometimes warming the system slightly will increase the speed at which you can make them.

Creams / Emulsions

The majority of cosmetics use raw materials that are not compatible so a cream or emulsion is used. Emulsions are pseudo stable mixtures of immiscible liquids dispersed in another liquid. They are used for products like hand moisturizers, make up, hair conditioners, sunscreens, etc. To create them you need three formula components including an oil phase, aqueous phase, and an emulsifier. The formulas are made by heating up the oil and water phases separately, mixing them together (along with the emulsifier) when they are hot, and cooling them down with thorough mixing. The result is a cream with tiny particles of dispersed in the diluent phase. See our article on emulsion HLB for more information on creating emulsions.

Lotions

Creams are not always appropriate for some applications because they can be too heavy or greasy. In these cases, the lotion form is used. Lotions are essentially thin creams. They are used for facial moisturizers, leave-in hair conditioners, and moisturizing cleansers. Since these are emulsions, you make them the same way you would a cream. They are generally easier because you do not have to worry about the emulsion getting thick enough as it cools down.

Suspensions

Suspensions are another product form for delivering incompatible ingredients. Unlike creams, they are typically clear products with visible particles like gelatin beads or inorganic minerals (e.g titanium dioxide) suspended throughout. They are used for sunscreens, hand washes or shampoos. To create them you need to include a polymer or clay that gives the formula some internal suspending structure. Ingredients like carbomer or bentonite clays are useful.

Ointments / Pastes

These are super thick products used for things like hairdressing and medicated skin products. Usually, they are anhydrous (contain no water) and are sticky & greasy. Some common ingredients used to create pastes include petrolatum, lanolin, or dimethicone. Making them is a simple matter of heating up the raw materials and rapidly mixing them until they are dispersed.

Tablets & Capsules

Another product form that is often used for creating color cosmetics is the tablet. These are physically blended solids that are held together by being pressed into shape. You’ll need special equipment to create these products. They are also generally more expensive.

Powders

One of the most common types of product forms for color cosmetics is powders. Powders are also used for products like baby powder & foot powder. They are just mixtures of solid raw materials blended together into a fine powder. Some typical ingredients include talc, silicates, and starch. Special equipment is needed when making these products as the fine powder can be dangerous.

Gels

Another common form of cosmetic products is gels. These are thick products, typically clear, and have a property known as “shear thinning”. This means they stay thick until you apply a force which makes them thin and flowable. Anyone who has tried to get ketchup out of a bottle knows what we’re talking about. Gels are used for hair products, body washes, shaving products, and in toothpaste. They are made by using a gelling agent such as an acrylic polymer, a natural gum or a cellulosic thickener.

Sticks

Sometimes you need to create a product that the consumer won’t necessarily want to touch, for example, lipstick or underarm deodorant. In these cases you’ll use a stick product form. Sticks are solid delivery forms that deliver active ingredients through a rubbing action. The way you create them is by using mostly materials that are solid at room temperature. The ingredients are heated until they melt, mixed, and poured into either a mold or the final container. When they cool, they take the shape of their packaging.

Aerosols

Aerosols are more of a packaging product form than a specific formulation type. You could actually create an aerosol out of almost any cosmetic formulation if you have the right can, propellant, and nozzle set-up. Aerosols are any cosmetic delivered from a pressurized can. They are composed of a concentrate and a propellant. You first make the formula as you would any other cosmetic, then fill it into the can. You seal the can and pressurize it using the appropriate propellant. Recent VOC (volatile organic compounds) regulations have reduced the use of aerosols in cosmetic products.

In the future, we’ll look at each of these product forms in depth. You can find out more information in Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry edition 3.

41

41 comments

  1. Melissa

    I have been creating my own natural, “organic” skin-care products for about a year, currently for personal use but am thinking of expanding. I cannot find the answer to one question, I am hoping you can help with. What can I use as an emulsifier in my products to reduce, preferably eliminate, the greasy residue on skin from natural oils, such as coconut oil? I prefer not to use anything alcohol-based, if possible and please remember, whatever ingredient has to be pure, natural and not synthetic. Can you help me? I’ve combed the Internet, many times, to no avail. Thank you.

  2. sam

    hi, just want to know about your opinion on what type is “serum” belong to ? emulsion or gel ?

    1. Perry Romanowski

      A serum would probably be a solution or a gel.

  3. Lydia

    Greetings chemistry was one of my best subjects in School,great to find People who love it too,not only for Business purposes but as something one loves doing. I am intrested to start a cosmetic Beauty line but am not so sure where to start or how to do it,do you offer any Guidelines?

  4. Eberu florence O.

    l want to appreciate thèse information so far and l like it. l ami intending to Start up making some cosmetics such as shampoo, haïr condition treatment, hand softening treatment for hard skins and l dont know much about it . could you please éducate me

  5. Pingback:Choosing the Right Cosmetics for Skin Type

  6. Charles Murphy

    Good day Sir,

    I want to appreciate you for this information. I’m luck to have come to this page thru my research.

    Pls I would like you to help me bcus I want to start up something on how to make some of these products. I so much like what you are doing here.

    Pls can you help by sending me the formulae n how to make creams, lotions, ointments, powder, gel n sticks. I would appreciate if you can send it to my email..

    challybay79@yahoo.com

    Thank u

  7. Pingback:Making Cosmetics the scientific way

  8. m.ashraf

    I want to know formula for making hair removing cream

  9. Brad

    Hi, this is very helpful. I’m a novice, however, I am trying to create a formula for an antiperspirant product. I have the ingredients but need guidance on how to mix and then record the percentages of the ingredients.

    1. ed

      Are you using AlZrtetrachlorohydrex?

  10. gohar sabri

    looking for easy gel making formula any one help me

    1. Perry Romanowski

      See our post on free cosmetic formulas

  11. Dr. SAYED ATALLA

    Looking for Manufacturing Cream w/o Formula with followings :
    Contents
    Beta-sitosterol 0.25%, Sesame oil 92%, Beeswax 7.75%
    Purpose
    As burn repair is especially formulated to promote the natural healing of all burns including scalds, sunburn, nappy rash, sweat rash and chafing. By Supporting Stem cell regeneration
    Best Regards
    Thanks & Best Regards
    .Dr.Sayed Atalla
    Professor at Biopharmaceutical technology and Industrial
    Biopharmaceutical technology Industrial Consultant
    Chairman of SS-PharmaConsult –SAE
    Consultant of pharmaceutical technology
    Cell Phone : +20 111 815 40 44
    Email : dr.atalla.who@hotmail.com

  12. Annabel

    Hello Sir,
    So glad I came upon this site. Thank you. I am trying to find a Nail polish fomulator/Chemists around or near Illinois. Any guidance is appreciated

  13. Vipul Patel

    Thank u very much for above information. Sir I want to start a new business of cosmetic. Can u give me formula for making cosmetic. U can share with my mail id :vipulranip@gmail.com.

  14. Adelaide

    I am desparate to learn how to formulate a basic cream like aqueous cream, body butter, basic lotions, basic sun moisturiser
    Please help

    1. Perry Romanowski

      We will be covering that in our upcoming training program. Sign up for out newsletter for more details.

  15. Johnson

    What is holding you back from not starting your own skincare brand

    1. Perry Romanowski

      Personally, I enjoy writing more than I do selling a skincare brand so that’s why I haven’t done it yet.

  16. dr.sharada

    looking for cream formulation.thanks for the beutiful information.plz provide me the detail information on technology and formulation it will be a great help.thank you.
    sonapriya2003@yahoo.com

    1. Perry

      See our article on free cosmetic formulations for where you can find specific formulations or ask your question in the forum.

  17. Rifka

    Hello sir, i want to ask you something. what type of cosmetic formula spray lotion is? is it an emulsion? or an aerosol? tahnk you for your answer..

    1. Perry

      It could be both an emulsion and an aerosol. If it is in a pump spray, then it is just an emulsion.

  18. harsh

    Hello sir
    Can i have some new developed formulas as i want to develop somethng new as developing same thing which other firm allready making is quite borring for me persnally …

  19. Meliga Kuseka

    Brilliant information, please supply me more on stick and creams for facials

  20. PATRICK

    THANKS FOR THE BEAUTIFUL INFORMATION. CAN YOU PROVIDE ME WITH FULL TECHNOLOGY/FORMULATION DETAILS OF
    Creams / Emulsions
    Lotions
    Ointments / Pastes
    THANKS
    pezegbudo@gmail.com

  21. ABID SULTAN

    hello,
    please i want to see face powder and makeup sticks formoulas

  22. Magreth Hange

    Looking for formulas to make body and hand lotions, lip and vaginal serums, bar soaps, body sprays, shampoo and conditioners. It wil help if i can buy basic formulas to make my own flavors wth.

  23. Julianna

    Novice here. Looking for comments from the experts. Looking for manufacturing formula’s of spray tanning solution. Also looking for maufacturing formula’s of pre- spray exfoliator, sprayed on skin prior to spray tan. Any direction wouod greatly be appreciated. Thanks, Julianna

  24. Golden Wing Comany

    Looking for Manufacturing Formulla’s of Hair removing Cream

    Natural Bleach Cream and Herbal Bleach Creme.

  25. Pingback:Share The Love: Weekly Linkage Roundup « Lazy Beautiful

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *