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Preservative free cosmetic formulating – How to make them

There was an interesting question posed on the cosmetic science forum the other day. The forum member wanted to know whether they could still call a cosmetic “preservative free” if one of the raw materials was known to have a preservative (methylparaben) in it. That lead to a discussion about what a preservative free cosmetic is and isn’t.

Can you claim preservative free?

The answer to the first question depends on the ethics of your company. The cosmetic industry guidelines allow for you to not list processing aids so technically, you may be able to get away with claiming preservative free. However, this certainly breaks the spirit of the law as the claim is misleading and could quite possibly be illegal under FTC guidelines. I’m not certain how things would be different in places outside the US.

What are preservative free cosmetics

Forum expert Duncan added the following comments which is helpful for any cosmetic formulator looking to create a preservative free formulation. (Note comments have been edited slightly).

Preservative free formulations will include:

1. Waterless products:oil based

That would include things like baby oil, massage oil, or wax based things like lip balm. They don’t need preservatives because harmful microbes will not grow in them. Spores might land and rest on the product surface, but they won’t germinate.

2. Waterless products: Non oil based.

If your formulation uses something like glycerin or other glycols, these will not need preservatives. They also heat up when exposed to water which is why they are used for self heating formulations.

3. Water containing products that are preserved by a non preservative.

This would include cosmetic formulas that have a high level of alcohol as the alcohol kills the microbes. You might also consider formulations with high levels of sugar to preserve it like Jam, or high levels of salt. Reducing the water activity will reduce the ability of microbes to grow and thus be self-preserving.

4. pH controlled formulas.

Having a pH of 10-11 will discourage bugs, as will a very acidic pH. Only really ok for hand washing type products, or kitchen cleaners.

5. Using non-preservative preservatives.

The cosmetic raw material suppliers continue to research and have launched some materials that are not technically preservatives but they have a preservative effect. These products are in no way good enough to get registered as preservatives, but have some antimicrobial effects.

For example, Sensiva SC50. It is sold as a skin feel additive, with some limited antimicrobial activity. Used as a skin feel additive it allows you to reduce preservative levels. A bit of a grey area when some people use a lot of it to “Preserve” products.

6. Air tight packaged products.

Finally, you could technically make a standard water-based formula under aseptic conditions then package it into an air tight container (like an aerosol can). This should stay suitably preserved through the lifetime of the product.

Preservative free challenge

Preservative free products are very difficult to create because your options are limited. I personally don’t think it’s a compelling reason to buy a formulation and that your time would be better spent working on new benefits for your products, however, a number of consumers and your marketing group might disagree. Good luck!

{ 14 comments… add one }

  • Agnes 09/16/2013, 11:17 am

    Being preservative free is definitely a challenge. The butters used to formulate most of the skin creams are fat based. If very little water is used to give it a creamy texture it can self preserve itself for a long time. Yes, the initial formulation takes time, but once it has been achieved it becomes easier.

  • ZPD 04/30/2013, 8:24 pm

    One of the most popular OTC products in the market that has 10% Menthol, 4% camphor and 30% methyl salicylate as active ingredients. %. I noticed that there is no other preservative except for edetate disodium. Will this be enough to preserve the product? Thank you.

    • Perry Romanowski 05/01/2013, 10:02 am

      You’d have to test it to find out. It really depends on how much water is in the formula.

  • erhan 03/24/2013, 12:21 pm

    Hi Perry, thank you very much for notice

  • Ayur 03/22/2013, 11:40 pm

    Hi. Plz help me with some good preservative for my homemade face pack. It is made from almond, rose water, turmeric and hydroquinone cream. I would love to use this pack round the year but it doesn’t last long as rose water plays spoiler. Plz plz help me with some preservative which will keep this formula at least for a year without affecting performance.
    Thanks

  • tiana 02/13/2013, 2:46 am

    If my raw materials come with preservatives already included will I still need to add preservatives to the finished product for resale? The products I’m interested in making is makeup FYI

    • Perry 02/13/2013, 6:44 am

      Typically, the amount of preservative in the raw material is not adequate for preserving your whole formula so, yes, you will need to add preservative to the finished product.

  • Jerome 02/05/2013, 11:59 am

    I have posted on this issue before.

    My flagship product, Crema Conditioner has been manufactured for over 30 years; 9 years by me and has never had a preservative in it. pH is not too extreme: not within limits noted above. Not one cfu, not one test failure (under my nose anyhow).

    I recently used an off the shelf non preservative preservative in my new shampoo formulas. It passed the PET USP 35 sect. 51 and 61 on first try at the recommended amount against staph, E. coli, Pseudomonas, C. Albicans, A. Niger. Undetectable after 7 days. It sits well on stability, in-fact better than an alternative I was using and is cheaper. Case closed? What is the issue here?

    Am I missing something or just lucky? Taking these courses and reading these forums, I worry/loose sleep about this all the time and wonder if it is needless worry. I do keep my manufacturing area/ equipment sanitary.

    • Perry 02/05/2013, 12:19 pm

      I have two thoughts on this.

      1. Maybe your testing isn’t rigorous enough. Is it done by an outside testing house or internally?

      2. Do your raw materials come supplied with preservatives in them already? Many / most raw materials are preserved.

      It seems unlikely that you would be so lucky so there must be something about your formulation that makes it repellant to microbial growth (or you’ve got growth but your testing hasn’t detected it).

  • amo 02/03/2013, 10:06 pm

    Hello! Wondering if any of the folks here have any opinion or experience with the preservative Citric Acid (and ) Silver Citrate, aka Silver Dihydrogen Citrate aka Tinosan SDC aka Silverion 2400. I have been using it in my oil/water formulations as an alternative to other so-called “natural preservatives” that seem a little suspect to me.

    • Perry 02/04/2013, 2:27 pm

      I’d suggest you post this question to the forum where you might get answers from more chemists. I would be skeptical that the preservative you’ve suggested will have a broad enough kill spectrum to be used regularly in cosmetics.

  • Jackie 01/31/2013, 1:04 pm

    Good luck educating the general public with that philosophy. The average joe seems to think that natural is best and we should all be living chemical free. Excuse me while I go bang my head against a wall!!

    • Perry 01/31/2013, 1:18 pm

      It is definitely frustrating but we can’t give up! Must continue to educate and fight the good fight. Everything is a chemical!!

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