Making cosmetics

edited July 2018 in Color and makeup
Hello I am having some trouble. I make batches all the time of blushes but this last batch I made looked different. I didn't change anything or didn't do anything different. Does anyone know why this happened? And what it is? Its darker around the edges with a red tone to it. It almost looks like it oxized but I don't know what happened?


  • What material are your pans? Can your pans rust? What kind of environment are your pans kept in?
  • edited July 2018
    @gld010 Hello my pans are tin plates . I always use these ones and I don't have a problem. I store them in a plastic container inside my home where I make them. Do u think it might be the water. I use destilled water but it has been hot so I don't know if that has something to do with it. I also use oils so it's been hot. Can that affect it? 
  • @gld010 it does look like rust but it's the way the powder is drying and it becomes more red as it gets up.
  • edited July 2018
    Looks like migration of the mica to me. Could be separation of darker mica within the batch. Depending on quality of mica, may have some iron in it causing the darker "rust" coloration. 
  • @Dirtnap1
    Okay so how can I get rid of that in the batch? Do I have to start over or is there something that I can put in it to even it out? Like more water? I don't want to throw the batch away but if I have to I will. :/ 
  • @Dirtnap1i use water, jojoba oil, and coconut oil and phenoxethanol. And how would I know that this won't happen in each batch. I haven't changed suppliers because all the other batches are good. 
  • For me, producing cosmetics is all about controlling variables, and there can be many.  "inside my home where I make them" is a difficult place to controll variables. Also, what do you have in terms of a QC system? What about your Batch Manufacturing Record? Without any of these in place you can waste a lot of time in trying to identify causes of an issue like this.
    Dr. Mike Thair
    Cofounder & Chief Formulator
    Indochine Natural
  • @mikethair as far as a QC system and the manufacturers they have not changed anything from buying somewhere else. They r all FDA approved ingredients but I don't know y this happened when everything was coming out great. I even did a mold test and came out fine. 
  • edited July 2018
    I've never made a product of this type, so I can't be of much help in that department unfortunately. 
    I would suggest trying another small batch and see if it continues to happen. Double check that all weights/measurements are correct and consistent as in your other batches. Same with product setup/cool-down etc. 

    I can see if too much oil was added the mica could have separated a bit more than usual.

    What does it look like under the center top portion? Darker red or consistent light color?

    Do you mix your micas before use? It's possible if you are scooping from the top without mixing you are getting into layers with darker/lighter weight micas. Or if you add more/new mica to existing mica, could be slightly different. Just a thought. 
  • @Dirtnap1its okay your definitely helping. The top layer of the blush looks great once I press it but once it starts to dry it starts to change . See even on the batch its turning. When this has never happened to me before. I'm doing everything the same. I'm just wondering if it changed do to the heat. My house isn't has hot but maybe the heat of the home these last come of weeks it was to warm so I feel that that could be it. But see look at the batch. 
    You can see on top of the batch that it's red but the middle isn't. So I got a bit of where it wasn't red and I pressed it and the blush Turned slightly red so that was good but still did it. I'm cracking my head to figure this out. 
  • The dark red spots are interesting. But unfortunately my experience is extremely limited. Could it be something in your base not completely mixed or emulsified pulling the red dye into it?
  • @Dirtnap1 from what I know I mixed everything but I'll try to figure it out. Thank u so much for ur time 
  • edited July 2018
    Sometimes this happens if the pigments aren't sifted before use. I've had this problem with Titanium Dioxide from some retailers. When the particles are different sizes, they tend to migrate or "clump" around the edges or towards the middle, depending on the mineral. I'd try pre-sifting with a super-fine sieve everything before you start (even if it looks like it already has been sieved) and then after mixing the powders, sieve them again before adding the liquid. Also, I'm not sure if you mentioned this, but the use of glycerin can sometimes cause rust in the pans...just an fyi.... Hope this helps. 
  • @arachne013 thank you so much for your suggestion. I'm going to try that because it keeps doing it again. When this has never happened and I actually stopped using glycerin because I was making colors for myself and I started to notice rust so changed it to jojoba oil and fractionated coconut oil. Which has been good. But I'll try that. Thanks again! 
  • edited July 2018
    @Mynkcosmo Also, it could be a different "batch" from wherever you get your ingredients from. I've noticed this especially with some brown oxides. If that's the case, you might have to adjust your recipe a bit or find a different source, that's usually a last-doubt option.
  • edited July 2018
    Also (again, sorry, may bad...I just keep going over this in my head), if problem still eludes rectification, you can try making tiny batches of each separate color to see which one is the culprit...then you'll at least narrow down the problem (if it is indeed a pigment issue). Also, if it's a humidity issue, heavier oils can make the mica-rich pigments stick together even if they are mixed with a less-mica pigment.....kinda separating itself. That's my experience, anyway.
  • I have seen such color change in a foundation formula. If you have poured the product out and it came in contact with air. Then the whole color changed to a more reddish tone. What red pigment are you using? Is it a red iron oxide? 
  • @Timothy no it is mica with shimmer. Looks like a strawberry color 
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