≡ Menu

Cosmetic Tests You Must Run Before Launching Your Product

Many followers of this website have a desire to create and sell their own product. We continue to work on a training program that shows you just how to do that, but in the meantime it would be helpful if you knew exactly the type of testing you have to do prior to selling your product. Note this information applies to US cosmetic products. Other countries may follow slightly different rules.

There are four types of testing you must do before selling your own product. These include micro-testing, stability testing, safety testing and performance testing.

Microbial Testing

This could really be put under safety testing but it is so important that it deserves its own category. Whenever you create a new formula you need to ensure that the preservative system you are using is adequate for preventing dangerous microbial growth. There are two primary types of testing you need to do.

  • Micro Challenge Testing — This is a test in which you purposely introduce microbes into your batches, then watch the samples over time to see whether your preservative system is good enough to kill off the microbes. If it’s not, you need to improve your preservation system.
  • Contamination test — This is a test you need to do on every batch of product you sell! It is a simple matter of taking a sample and testing to see whether it is contaminated or not. If it’s not, then proceed with packaging & distribution. If it is, don’t sell it!

Stability Testing

Cosmetic stability testing is a study run to determine whether your product will last on store shelves and on your consumers bathroom counter. Stability testing is an important quality test that you need to run in order to sell your products in the US. It is also useful to ensure that when people do buy your product they won’t be dissatisfied with a foul odor, ugly color, or separated formula.

Safety Testing

You can’t sell a product that is not safe. If you do, you open yourself up to litigation which could pretty much ruin any fledgeling cosmetic manufacturer. Safety testing includes things like patch testing, eye irritation tests, and a host of other procedures that ensure consumers will not become serious ill after using your product. The amount of safety testing done depends on the type of product you are going to sell and how different the raw materials are. If you are making something that uses standard cosmetic raw materials, less testing would be needed than if you are using raw materials that are new to the cosmetic industry.

Performance testing

The type of performance testing or claims testing that you need to do depends on the specific advertising claims you’re going to be making for your product. In the US you are bound by the rules of the FTC which state that you cannot promote false advertising. This means if you say your product is going to clean hair, you have to demonstrate that it does. If you say your lotion will moisturize skin, you have to show it does that. There are some industry standard tests but in many cases as a cosmetic chemist, you’ll have to come up with your own reasonable test to demonstrate that what you say about a product is true.

It is not necessary to show the results of any of these tests to the government prior to launching your product. In the US, the industry is self-regulated. However, this does not mean you can skip testing because the FDA can inspect your facilities and levy huge fines on companies that do not have the proper paper work. Be sure to keep track of all your testing procedures and results of any product that you sell.

Testing can be an expensive obstacle to many small cosmetic company launches but it is a crucial step that you absolutely must do before launching any new product.

{ 26 comments… add one }

  • pera 11/20/2014, 3:08 am

    we are truing to improve to formulations first one hair gel ,,,,one problem it gets bad ones is inside the container but not outside the mixing container ,,what do you recommend ?
    second one on a bleach powder that is not to fast to bleach the hair how to improve the same one to work faster without high value peroxide ? thank you ahead

    • Perry Romanowski 11/25/2014, 5:48 pm

      This isn’t enough information to answer your questions. I suggest you post to our cosmetic science forum.

  • Jenna 09/04/2014, 1:26 pm

    Hey Perry:
    A great post just in time :)
    When using preservatives in a product that has some distilled water, what are your suggestions for more natural preservatives. There’s a few out there giving me some paralysis by analysis. Any input would be greatly appreciated :)

    Jenna

    • Perry Romanowski 09/04/2014, 9:21 pm

      Do a search on the site as we’ve done a preservative review before. But natural preservatives depends on what you consider natural. In general, I don’t like to encourage people to use less effective preservatives. Messing around with microbial contamination is not a thing you should do.

  • Eni 06/28/2014, 4:43 am

    Hi Perry,

    I wanna have my own skin care product. I’m not very convinced with the chemist I appointed currently.
    How I wish you could do formulations for me. Is it possible? And I hope it’s not that expensive. ^__^

    • Perry Romanowski 06/29/2014, 3:52 pm

      Hello Eni – Thanks for your request but I’m not formulating for others at the moment. I would suggest you post your request in our cosmetic science forum (http://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk)

      Regards
      Perry, 44

  • ams 04/08/2014, 6:51 am

    Dear Perry,
    Your input on various questions are always very helpful and reflect your command on the subject. I have a small query that in hand wash liquid is there any possibility of discoloration because of fragrance. In one of the blue variant we have experience discoloration in storage [oven at 45 deg C]. The colour tend towards greenish in 3 weeks. Any clue; what needs to be done.
    thanks,

    • Perry Romanowski 04/08/2014, 12:33 pm

      Yes. Fragrance yellowing is one of the most common stability problems there are. You can either change the fragrance or add an antioxidant to try and stop the reaction that is causing the yellowing. The other trick, if the yellowing isn’t bad, is to use some Violet #2 to offset the yellow.

  • Vinay 08/26/2013, 10:22 am

    Hi Perry, Whatever u had written that is helpful for Formulation of any cosmetic product, Can you give me an advice what are the tests should be done before launching any cosmetic ingredient in a market.

    • Perry Romanowski 08/26/2013, 10:28 am

      For ingredients, you have to do the same kinds of things but most importantly is to do safety testing. You have to prove that your ingredient is safe to be used on people. For most raw material suppliers this means animal testing.

      • Vinay 08/31/2013, 4:38 am

        Thank you so much Perry….for the information

  • Jane 07/15/2013, 7:47 am

    Hi Perry,
    I would like to know if it is necessary to perform preservative challenge testing in low water content cosmetic products such as massage oils and bar soaps.

    Thanks,
    Jane

    • Perry Romanowski 07/15/2013, 1:11 pm

      Yes, it is possible.

  • Louise 01/31/2013, 10:03 pm

    If a cosmetic product – e.g. hair dye or shampoo – was launched in Spring 2012 (lets say March 2012) should the manufacturer have contemplated pregnant women who may use the product? Would the manufacturer have had to ensure that the product is ‘safe’ in relation to pregnant women / the developing unborn child?

    • Perry 02/01/2013, 4:46 am

      Cosmetics have to be proven safe for all consumers which means they can not cause birth defects.

  • Alize 01/30/2013, 11:05 pm

    Hi Perry

    I would like to know that after tested of the makeup products such as eye makeup or powder (These products always get into my eyes due to I use it in daily life TT). It means the products will have no effect or harm to the eyes in both short term and long term right??

    Thank you :)

  • Gian 01/30/2013, 1:24 pm

    Hi Perry

    I wondered why you didn’t mention packaging compatibility test here.

    Thanks
    Gian

    • Perry 01/30/2013, 1:26 pm

      Hello Gian – I guess I lumped that under Stability Testing but you are correct to point it out.

      • Gian 01/30/2013, 2:57 pm

        Hi Perry

        I have a puzzling question. If say, I would like to market a product with a limited shelf life, like it will have to be used in just 3 weeks so that consumer is still using a fresh product, can I do the test at just 2 weeks then, the targeted/marketed 3 weeks shelf life of the product? Is this still acceptable?

        Thank you.

        • Perry 01/30/2013, 3:05 pm

          Interesting question. For such a short amount of time you might as well do the stability test for the entire time (3 weeks). However, you have to realize that your product will be in the market longer than 3 weeks. You need to make sure that it lasts for that long after the consumer gets it. Or put an expiration date on the product. Since it will take a number of days or weeks to ship to your retailer, this could be a significant problem.

          • Gian 01/30/2013, 3:16 pm

            Thanks Perry. If that 3 weeks is being targeted as shelf life, would you recommend doing the test still at higher temperature and having a control at 5 deg C? Or would you just run it at RT for the whole 3 weeks?

  • Shalini 10/04/2011, 12:16 am

    Hi Perry,

    how about P.A.O testing? is the test similar to stability testing? if no, would you know how to conduct such testing?
    thanks.

    • Eliza 10/04/2011, 6:03 am

      Not Perry but I happen to have looked up this one ;)
      P.A.O. includes 2 kinds of challenge testing. 1 that proves that your product is free of bugs for longer than 30 months when unopened/sealed. Second one proves that when the product is opened and exposed to bugs your preservatives would hold for the given P.A.O. period.
      hth

  • LaNita Darden 10/03/2011, 7:12 am

    I know these tests are important and thank you for bringing this up as a public conversation. Could you go into further detail as to how to do these tests including the tools needed? Thanks

  • Eliza 10/03/2011, 7:03 am

    You are officially my hero, Perry! Thank you for saying this out loud/writing this publicly. Personally I didn’t know the difference between micro and contamination batch testing, I always called both micro, so thanks for pointing out the difference.
    As a beginning entrepreneur I would find it very helpful if you would be able to write a bit more in depth about testing of anhydrous products, testing of handmade soaps (not a cosmetic by FDA rules) and testing of products containing more than 35% ethanol. Microbiology & cosmetics are very fascinating, but also a tough subject!
    Thanks again!

    • Perry 10/03/2011, 7:10 am

      Thanks Eliza! I’ll work on a more in-depth version.

Leave a Comment