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Will do I have it at hand, otherwise I’m using 0.5% Xanthan in the current formula.

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Yes, I was reading about glycerin, water, alcohol and acid extraction - all with extracting different classes of chemicals. Often times alcohol extraction is done first, then the extract is reconstituted in glycerin.

There is def a market for standardized skincare products by prosumers and doctors who want to legally? experiment on their patients with e.g. topical pycnogenol or sulforaphane.

Thanks for the detailed response!

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Anydrous would seem to make sense, possibly silicon based too? Seen any stability data? I remember seeing can remain stable in food oils for a long time at RT, but retinol is less stable.

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Furthermore, it’s a small forum with the three guys posting above being the most active

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What’s the centrifuge methodology? Can it in your experience give a lot of false positives? (i.e. if it fails centrifuge test it can still pass accelerated stability).

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There are 50% urea treatments available and if breaking up part of the skin matrix is callouses, here’s one:

CARBOMER COPOLYMER TYPE A  

.ALPHA.-TOCOPHEROL ACETATE, DL-  

EDETATE DISODIUM  

GLYCERIN  

LACTIC ACID  

MINERAL OIL  

POLYSORBATE 85  

WATER  

SODIUM HYDROXIDE  

STEARIC ACID  

PYRITHIONE ZINC

Homeopathy refers to the use of minute doses of a treatment in most definitions of the word.

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It strike me that I haven’t tried any OTC remedies, so maybe this is a solved problem, seems like Tolnaftate 1% in a PEG solution in the morning and 25% undecylenic acid in the evening would be my best bet?

Now if existing treatments do not work then I can make OTC formulations for my own toes all day - If one works for me i’d get in touch with a couple of doctors in Canada who can get treatments formulated at local compounding pharmacies, then if they’re happy, then crowdfund a production run at a OTC approved FDA registered facility (IF it’s better than what’s currently available).

I just doubt that anything that doesn’t actually take the nail off will work at my advanced stage.

Here’s the final monograph:

The FM, or final rule, was published on September 23, 1993, and became effective on September 23, 1994 (Ref. 3).  In the FM, we reviewed about ten studies and found the following active ingredients to be GRASE for the treatment of athlete’s foot: 

· clioquinol 3%

· haloprogin 1%

· miconazole nitrate 2%

· povidone-iodine 10%

· tolnaftate 1%

· undecylenic acid and its salts (calcium, copper, and zinc) for a total undecylenate concentration of 10-25%

We found all other ingredients considered in this rulemaking not to be GRASE for use in an OTC topical antifungal drug product.  In addition, the FM includes labeling similar to that recommended by the Panel in the ANPR.  All of the active ingredients are indicated for the treatment of athlete’s foot as well as the relief of symptoms due to athlete’s foot.  One active ingredient, tolfaftate, is indicated for the prevention of athlete’s foot.  In addition, the active ingredients are indicated for the treatment of ringworm (tinea corporis) and jock itch (tinea cruris).    

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A pro tip for filling a lot of units, either pour when the lotion is hot and liquid andor use a peristaltic pump with a check valve and foot pedal

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Sealing lids are a good idea, just can’t seem to find any for 2 oz glass jars, will use plastic for now.

Ingredients for now - not INCId:

Deionized Water, French Green Clay, Calcium Carbonate, Willow Bark Extract (Standardized 10% Salicylic Acid), Witch Hazel Distillate (Alcohol Free), Zinc Oxide, Sodium Lactate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sea Kelp Bioferment, Powdered Sencha, Panthenol, Calendula Extract, Green Tea Extract, MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane), Niacinamide, Allantoin.

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@Bobzchemist great advice, currently I have this: USP grade, particle size 0.2-1 µm http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Zinc-Oxide-p196.html not sure whether it’s pigmentary grade? Where do you get yours?

What kind of usage rate is typical if say using Zinc Oxide and Boron Nitride together? (assuming there is something to be gained over using only ZnO)

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Wiki could give some hints, not sure which would apply for topical use: 

Salicylic acid has been shown to work through several different pathways. It produces its anti-inflammatory effects via suppressing the activity of cyclooxygenase (COX), an enzyme that is responsible for the production of pro-inflammatory mediators such as the prostaglandins. It does this not by direct inhibition of COX like most other non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs(NSAIDs) but instead by suppression of the expression of the enzyme (via a yet-unelucidated mechanism).^[23] Salicylic acid has also been shown to activate adenosine monophosphate-activated protein kinase (AMPK), and it is thought that this action may play a role in the anticancer effects of the compound and its prodrugs aspirin and salsalate. In addition, the antidiabeticeffects of salicylic acid are likely mediated by AMPK activation primarily through allosteric conformational change that increases levels of phosphorylation etc etc 

Anyways, I guess I just have to test it.

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You’d be shocked to know how many women use concealer on their vaginas, @mike !

@Bobzchemist thanks for the explanation, what about just using more zinc oxide replacing Ti diox? Boron nitride looks promising, I can afford it, what particle size would be good for a concealer? And how does it compare to Titanium dioxde as an opacifier?

@cosmochem interesting, know any good sources to get it from?

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Don’t use oils, stick with water soluble ingredients such as plant extracts instead of essential oils, clays are oil absorbers. 

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Chemicalmatt. There’s more to it that acidity I believe, so It could work great.

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For reference you can dissolve 220 gram SA in 1L propylene glycol at RT.

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I modified a SA solubility  spreadsheet BTW: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AppNaehx8mQqdHo5dmpZUWpDOU5SWkVVZ1VQMFpaRnc&single=true&gid=18&output=html

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See my thread about the same issue in a oil in water emulsion:
https://chemistscorner.com/cosmeticsciencetalk/discussion/222/acidic-scar-healing-lotion-curdled-under-cooldown-help-me-fix-my-recipe#Item_10

I’ve modified a solubility table to show how many grams of SA will dissolve in a liter (typ 1000 grams) of solvent and est how many % of solvent you’ll need in your 2% formula not accounting for the specific gravity of the solvents.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AppNaehx8mQqdHo5dmpZUWpDOU5SWkVVZ1VQMFpaRnc&single=true&gid=18&output=html

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In this case I decided to choose preservative after making the base lotion,  as the base could change so much, turned out to be the right decision as I’m switching to anhydrous (for now).

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Yes, Ewax INCI: Cetearyl (Cetyl+Stearyl) Alcohol and Polysorbate 60. And yes, 7% is on the low side, good suggestion to add more low HLB emulsifier. 

But for the next edition I’ll do an anhydrous version with a high % castor oil and add thickener to keep the oils together, any ideas on that? Cetyl Alcohol ? Beeswax? 

@DavidW how many g/l can you dissolve in SD alcohol or hot propylene glycol? And does it remain in solution as the PG cools?

For preservative, Optiphen PLUS or Neodefend (lotioncrafter) probably. 

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Right, hard to find good data on solubility, maybe I’m looking the wrong places. If going pure oil I’ll need a way to keep different oils from separating, not sure how that’s done!

Found this paper: 1 part salicylic acid is soluble in 45 parts olive oil and interestingly only 7 parts castor oil, i.e. castor oils is a much better choice.

http://archderm.jamanetwork.com/article.aspx?articleid=520332

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As unexotic as possible, calcium bentonite should work well then? Any other options you would recommend in particular for a somewhat thick concealer? I’m sure all of those aren’t equivalent!

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BTW, couldn’t I just dissolve it in alkyl benzoate using a 75:25 benz/water solution as the ester would replace the water? 

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Thanks Bob, very useful, the BP I have at hand is in a water based solution called Curoxyl 42%, so it def won’t be useful for this application, but it is explosion proof..

So regarding 1) what grinding tool would be best for the job? Regarding BPO explosion risk there’s a interesting thread here: http://boards.straightdope.com/sdmb/showthread.php?t=455686 (a lot of misinformation though). If there are strict handling requirements I guess I’d have to get my CM to formulate samples for me.

So I guess when you have your fine powder and you’ve not blown up, then use e.g. beeswax andor stearic acid to make a salve.

2) Good tip! Probably easier to just make a salve in this case.

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No vegetable oils there, searched and couldn’t find anything either, but seems like people are pretty happy with anhydrous moisturizers.

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What about  vegetable oils? How to do a “natural” friendly barrier? Could butters like shea work?