[Wickers]

I see, thank you Perry, Agate. 

[Wickers]

Thank you!

[Wickers]

Thanks, Pharma! A lot of interesting stuff said, and I agree with your points about amino acids. It’s fairly annoying trying to work around penetration issues when, yes, glycerol is the golden standard for humectancy and petroleum for occlusion (only for existing, non-penetrating cosmetic formulations?). 
Imagine if most cosmetic ingredients were 500 Da or less. 

And I know — I make up excuses to use copper peptides simply because of the colour . . . not that I have any idea how to formulate with it.

Can you explain about gamma-polyglutamic acid and how it “works” if it’s not meant to penetrate to influence receptors/enzymes? 

And a final question if you have time: does adding an emulsifier to water-based products increase its affinity to skin and to a small degree, help actives to penetrate past the lipid layers (given that they are small enough)? I don’t think this is accurate . . .
An example would be glycolipids as an emulsifier/stabilizer. Would including glycolipids in a formula help water-soluble actives to penetrate (because some actives are binded to the carbohydrate side of the glycolipid)? Would the lipid part allow the whole compound to penetrate the lipid layers? 

Thank you as always for your help!

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Thank you!

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Where do you find madecassoside/madecassic acid/asiatic acid (if you know)?

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Yeah. 

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Thank you, Pharma!

Ah yes, I know about the skin cancer growth side of EGFs. I just bat it aside, but the lack of activity of EGFs otherwise is kind of disheartening — so . . . no EGFs for me (at least until I know of any benefit). 

I find your past work really interesting. Thank you for answering my questions so far — I really admire your knowledge!

Would you find any reason to add small peptides in cosmetics? Copper peptides? Other tripeptides/tetrapeptides?

There is this one: G-NH2 (a monopeptide haha), supposedly a whitening cosmetic peptide. It has a molecular weight of 74 Da and inhibits multiple pathways in melanin synthesis. If I were to acquire this, and dissolve it in water (or whatever solvent), WOULD IT PENETRATE PAST THE S.C?

There is the initial issue of getting past the lipid layers, but I read something that said that excess water on the skin enhances penetration. 

I really am intrigued. Thank you for taking the time to help me!

[Wickers]

I got Malachite from Gattefossé. 

[Wickers]

Thanks everyone!

Yes, Emma, it was inspired by NIOD’s SDSM. I love it too

Pharma — thank you for your answer. I don’t know the amino acid sequence, but it is polar, so water-soluble. I want to try glyceryl oleate, but can you think of any other substances that disturbs the lipid layers of the skin?

I though dimethyl isosorbide did just that — disrupts lipid organization, so that active ingredients can travel past the stratum corneum. 

In other words, what are some penetration enhancers that are water soluble and compatible with medium/large peptides?

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Thank you all for your answers!

I know that oligopeptide-1 isn’t well-researched at all — I just want to try formulating with peptides fro experience. 

I think I’ll keep dimethyl isosorbide, but what other penetration enhancers will help molecularly small enough actives reach the dermis? Since I’m not selling I’m not worried about marketing rules/drug claims. 

[Wickers]

Thank you everyone!
Perry, I didn’t mean to complain about you or anything! I understand that you know a lot about this field and that you are genuinely curious. Thanks for reminding me not to blindly trust marketing claims. 
Can you please elaborate/attach any studies on alcohol having no negative effects on skin and hair? 
I did not consider that alcohol evaporates too quickly for any damage to be made. 
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/pdf/10.1111/ics.12364 (on skin)

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Yikes Perry, cynicism at its peak!

Amino acids (i.e. hyrdolyzed proteins) for hair is a very established link. Just search for any study on amino acids and overall hair health/strength, and you
‘ll see that the benefit is kind of indisputable. 

Black walnut shell extract acts as a natural colourant (sometimes even advertised as a skin-tanning extract — but that’s stretching it a little). Honestly, it doesn’t hurt to try; I’m hoping for a superficial dye that’s obviously temporary. 

- Efficacy studies from my suppliers about the tulip and phytocell

Since denatured alcohol is the 2nd ingredient from the Phyto spray, I thought I would steer clear because alcohol disrupts the surface lipid balance of skin and hair. Haircare is all about lipids (to my understanding anyway). 

By the way, which ingredients do you agree with? (apart from glycerin, mineral oil, etc?) Just curious

Thanks!

[Wickers]

Ahh alright. 

Is a blend of phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate + Leucidal Liquid good?

Don’t these basically work for everything?

Thanks!

[Wickers]

Hi, thank you!

1) Could you please explain to me (roughly OR carefully) why dimethyl isosorbide acts as a penetration enhancer for mainly lipids? 
I see it in water-based formulations, so shouldn’t it enhance to some degree the absorption of ingredients?

No, the amber thingy is a water-soluble extract. 

2) Could you please let me know if you are aware of Silver citrate FAILING as a preservative with certain formulations? I am sticking to a pH of ~4-6 most of the time. 

And yup, very expensive! But this is more about the process and the fun and grasping, so it’s not really about the result. 

[Wickers]

Thank you!

For a pH of ~4-6, is gluconolactone and chlorphenesin OK to use together? 
Any incompatibilities with possible ingredient types I should be aware of?

Thank you once again. 

[Wickers]

Please reply! Thanks

[Wickers]

California, U.S.

I am looking for small quantities. Thanks!