[vitalys]

IHK, I guess it’s intended to be a drug, not cosmetic product. Honestly, I find it disputable to use the ointment form for feet treatment, since it has so greasy consistency and pretty uncomfortable on the feet. Athlete foot is a complex disease and it may include both fungal and bacterial infections. Try to make a formulation based on emulsion.

[vitalys]

@ChemWizard,
I guess AHA peel is definitely supposed to be a rinse off product unless you include no more then 1-1,5% of AHAs in your formulation. For instance: you may want to put Citric acid, Lactic acid and Glycolic acid…
AHA are almost all excellent Keratolytics, so if they used as a leave on product - the hair is getting weak, thin and fragile.

[vitalys]

@gfeldman, You can find a wide range of them here: http://www.lubrizol.com

[vitalys]

@melliachemist, I don’t know why, but these kind of products are usually marketed only as styling products while they may yeild additional nice properties especially for some hair types. But, as we all know marketing people are often so blind, so they don’t see the additional advantages of the formulations.

[vitalys]

Well, I see another option for this hair type - the product based on Ceteareth-20 ( for instance) - it may serve as a very mild surfactant for hair washing.

There is one interesting formulation which contains Ceteareth-20 along with hair fixative. The final product looks like clear styling wax (gel). The customer could use it as a styling product and wash it off in the end of the day without shampoo leaving the hair as well as clean and conditioned. In combination with very low % of surfactants it will work even better.

[vitalys]

@melliachemist, yes, something like that - light and liquid. I suppose the form of spray let a customer to apply the product even and it prevents occlusion of the hair follicle area

[vitalys]

There is only concern I have regarding this method. Almost all conditioners contain fatty alcohols along with other lipophilic ingredients. All of them are great for the hair shaft, but they may be adsorbed around the hair follicles mixing with sebum. This may lead to inflammation of the follicles and hair loss. I think it would be less risky if customers use some liquid, leave-on conditioners in a spray form for this method.

[vitalys]

Hello, Gustavo! Unlike you, I work mostly on skin care formulations, but recently I have created a hair styling line based on Lubrizol’s hair fixatives. The results I have got are amazing. I have used alkaline capabilities of Arginine for neutralizing. Beside the good esthetic performances, those gels yield additional conditioning effect on hair, including improved moisturizing and incredible shine. The volunteers that have tried the samples during the month, have noticed less hair loss and improving in hair grow as well. Although this effect require additional and long term studying.

[vitalys]

Honestly - it’s incredible information…. I guess everything is going arround money - it’s the reason why they make attempts to introduce more strict regulations….

[vitalys]

@bluebear I would be so grateful if you could share the results of the experiment Good luck

[vitalys]

@ bluebear, I assume you have the mix of Glyceryl Stearate and Glyceryl Citrate in the final product and probably Glyceryl Palmitate as wel,l since the commercially available Stearic Acid is a mixture of Stearic Acid and Palmitic Acid.
I completely agree with Robert regarding his point #3.

@Bobzchemist, re: #2 - Glyceryl Citrate is a well known emulsifier in a food Industry and available from several companies.

@ alchemist - Yes, molecular distillation of GMS gives DMG ( Distilled Monoglycerides), which I like the most in formulation instead of regular GMS.

[vitalys]

Hello milliachemist,

I’m not sure if it helps in your musings, but just a hint that could lead to the answer. As far as I know during the Kaolin manufavturing, they make this clay clean by eliminating any traces of Fe and Ti oxides. It makes its quality the best.

[vitalys]

@ELDEskin, of course, combining that many actives together to get “multi-tasking”effect is a nice and challenging idea… But, unfortunately I doubt it would work great in reality. Look at the Pharmacology area ( which is the closest one to cosmetic formulation) - guess why they don’t create any elixir or panacea ( despite of all possible attempts in the past)? Because we may run into many issues like compatibility, ingredients interaction in the product and finally - the skin response and safety. As far as you add every other ingredient to your formulation inevitably you increase the risk of allergy. The longer ing.list the higher the risk of negative skin response. And the chance to cause a hypersensitivity is even higher when you use so called “natural” or plant derived ingredients in excessive dosage.

[vitalys]

Welcome back, Ben

[vitalys]

I suggest you should put Salicylic acid to the oil phase. But, please, don’t confuse “melting point” and “solubility”.

Re: thickener. It looks like you’re going to create a cream. So, you need to use some appropriate emulsifier or even a system of emulsifiers where Xanthan or Carbomer you have mentioned would play a role of additional thickeners - not emulsifiers. Your choice of emulsifier will depend on what kind of the emulsion you wish to get - WO, OW, WOW etc?

[vitalys]

I guess Chlorhexidine is a perfect alternative for Triclosan. I worked with it a few years ago and I discovered it even better. It would work great as anti-microbial active as well as preservative. It’s activity begins with 0,05% in cosmetics and all the tests (micro-biological) were perfectly clear. it’s cheap and affordable.

We also discovered that it’s activity as a deodorant was much stronger (and lasted longer) than Triclosan had in such products like foot care.

However, it could give some complexes with some other actives in solutions. For instance, adding Chlorhexidine to the thymol solution resulted in white cloudy complexes.

[vitalys]

Hello all dear colleagues! My ex username was vitedit here. I’m very happy to come back. Perry thanks a lot for the hard work in recovering the forum and the website.

My background is Dermatology. I have 15 years in formulation and 7 years running my own small company which offers formulation both for other brands and my own product line. We manufacture the products mostly for professional salon and cosmetic industry including skincare, manicure and pedicure as well as medicine grade peeling formulations. Also, we offer some formulations for men grooming. My own professional interests are focused on Keratolytics, emulsions and other disperse systems, as well as formulations against some skin disorders.