Svemirska_baklava
Forum Replies Created
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@chemicalmatt Suprisingly I actually use Ceteareth-20 as it’s not only less expensive compared to - 25 but in my opinion easier to work out, easier to formulate and it gives you a little bit more time for the product to be put into jars with less residue on hair (tested).
Beheneth on other hand, well. As it has higher melting point I am concerned about the solidification point and more importantly the residue that kind of product would leave on hair. Is there any meaningful advantage of behenyl alcohol compared to cetyl (or stearyl) alcohol? Also, these kind of products are usually less expensive (ranging from 5 to 10 dollars retail price) so I guess having such an expensive ingredient (here at least for beheneth) switched with something less expensive (ceteareth) would have a huge impact in price, so who could know…Also, in almost 2 years of formulating never have I stumbled upon any formulation with beheneth? Why is that so?
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@Perry that was my question as well. Giving the shear complexity of preparing such emulsions. Still, the adventages are many. With right labeling and marketing of such products this could be something really big, promising great emoliency, fresh new concept and a product that is essentially water but behaves much as many others, more pricey w/o emulsion. Who knows…
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@chemicalmatt How exactly do you successfully reproduce inverse emulsion? Do you use for example span 20 with some higher hlb emulgator or? What’s the idea behind to?
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Adding oils and such ingredients in shampoo is like putting a tank of kerozin inside a diesel car. It sure makes for a hell of a story, but provides no real benefit.
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@Perry I definetly would be starting a new discussion as this question tends to be asked a lot.
In summary, I have seen a lot of clinical studies (found on PubMed mostly) declaring parabens as totally safe, even after prolonged use. They are the most effective preservative system indeed, but also kinda of a scapegoat of cosmetic industry. Sadly. In most of my formulation I use phenoxyethanol in mix with caprylyl glycol, EHG, sorbic acid and such. Turns out that phenoxyethanol is indeed effective in most cases, which makes me think that this would be the nest ingredients to blame in the future. We’ll see. There are some ”natural” alternative however such as Biopein, Neopein, Suprapein, Leucidal, etc. but are mostly to expensive, can adjust the smell of the formula in many unwanted ways or are prone to discoloration. -
Hello @ChemicalPyros,Tnx for the answer.Well, the concept is interesting enough though. There is a great potential, but sadly, you are right. At this phase almost all the products look the same and are quite limited by the usage of ingredients. I guess you could add some non-greesy emollients, esters, polyols and alcohols, but that would be it.I am going to order some of the low HLB ingredients mentioned in the video, try, experiment, so we’ll see I guess if the potential is justified.
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Foldable label definetly, as much of the companies (L’oreal for example) use them on the bottom of the package.
Some paper glue and folded paper (or you can arrange in the printer workshop for that).
Companies use pre-folded paper with a pvc transparent sticker on front that will keep the paper at place. Look aesthetically pleasing as well. -
What in your opinion would be the best preservative system to use in cosmetic lotions and creams?
Also, regarding Geogard 221,I tryed using it in probably more then 10 different products, but after microbiological testing always found it inadequate to effectively preserve formulation on it’s own. What would the best natural preservative be in your own accord? -
Np Perry, see you around I guess.
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Hello there.
What equipment do you use? What else does you formula has apart of ceteareth-25 and water? Do you mix the phases separately?I came across the same problem some time ago, but I had success by:
-switching ceteareth-25 to cetearerh-20. I found that the ceteareth-25 had a tendency to foam more then it’s smaller chain counterpart.
-Mixing the water phase and emulgator phase separately, then adding ceteareth phase in water phase. Also, the temperature needs to be adjusted so it doesn’t go to high, as that can create bubbles also.
-avoid using PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-40 HCO in larger amounts (more then 3 to 5% respectively).
-when adding ceteareth into the hot water, add it in portions.
-do not mix on higher rpm, and use an overhead mixer at maximum 200rpm (depends on the batch size of course)
-adding some glycerin and propylene glycol into the formula, if you haven’t can help
-after the mixing of phases mix slowly, then setting the rpm higher as it cools down slowly. Some bubbles have to occur in the process, it’s unavoidable. Use vacuum pump if you have the resources and remove excess bubbles formed after the initial mixing of two phases.
-preferably use a stirrer with axial flowHope it helps. It would be beneficial to post the formula and process of making the product also, that way you can get full help here.