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  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    December 17, 2021 at 11:56 pm in reply to: Mystery of water based pomades - AMA (ask me anything)

    @annyeap Well, to that problem:
    -add the oil phase into water phase slowly
    -do not mix at speeds more than 150-300rpm (depends of batch size)
    -vacuum pump would help immensely
    -add silicon oil such as dimetikon, simetikon, cyclomethicone and such. They reduce the forming of bubbles
    -after mixing the phases and emulsifying the product, remove excess bubbles from the top of the batch
    -after pouring and waiting for the pomade to set spray with ethanol all of your products (this is pretty much life changing). The ethanol reduces the surface tension of formed bubbles and as such helps them dissipate. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    December 17, 2021 at 11:50 pm in reply to: Mystery of water based pomades - AMA (ask me anything)

    @Dirtnap1 Well, in my latest attempts I would say two ingredients can do be of use in application you wanted. First of them would probably be VP/VA copolymer, as it is quite resistant to humidity. The other one would be PVP, preferably in 3 to 5% range but I need to say that the humidity resistent part tends to be a common problem with using PVP only. What I used in regard of providing the feel you asked is the up mentioned supstance with Saboflaw sat (inci: acrylate taurate copolymers) in ratio of 1:10 or 1:8. It did the job quite nice. Also, PVP-K90 can provide that feel also, so it’s up to you to experiment really. Depending on the product you can pretty much use more than 100 fixative agents currently on the market.
    Also, adding a little bit of peg-8 beeswax can improve the product quite nicely, as well as setting that humectant ratio just right. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    October 9, 2021 at 10:41 am in reply to: Hair clay matte finish

    @SeasonHairCare02 OK mate. I am really interested in seeing what ingredients you used. Thank you :) 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    October 8, 2021 at 11:24 pm in reply to: Hair clay matte finish

    Can you provide the formula here? @SeasonHairCare02

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    October 8, 2021 at 6:41 pm in reply to: Debunking the egg myth

    Well, this question is rather interesting. The previous day I had my roommate swearing in the effect that eggs had on his hair.

    The thing is, egg does have some rather interesting compounds such as bunch amino acid (with sulphur predominantly) largely in peptide form, minerals such as selen and zink and cholesterol and other lipid compounds. The thing is that you can readily find papers that state the egg compounds induce VEGF (vascular endothel growth factor) and bind to IGP-1 (insulin growth factor 1), both which have proven effect on revitalising hair folicules. The question is, can they penetrate into deeper layers of epidermis and dermis? ????

    https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/29583066/

  • You should try solubilizers as polysorbate or propylene glycol, note the effect and leave it here. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 25, 2021 at 11:11 am in reply to: Hair clay matte finish

    Hello there.
    Lower the amount of propylene glycol and glycerin. Try using 3 to 5% cetearyl alcohol in formula, it will immensely help to thicken it and act as a co-emulgator. Lower the argana oil content (it will only provide shine leave the hair oily). Only microcrystalline wax there is providing the higher melting point and that just won’t be enough. You can try to add 3 to 5% carnauba or higher percentage of microcrystalline wax. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 24, 2021 at 4:30 pm in reply to: Looking for hair care manufacturers!

    Hello geni. We are located in Europe, we can help on that accord. 
    Barbatus.company@gmail.com to contact us. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 23, 2021 at 1:18 pm in reply to: Dissolving salicylic acid

    You can use ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol… 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 22, 2021 at 9:59 pm in reply to: Mystery of water based pomades - AMA (ask me anything)
  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 22, 2021 at 9:40 pm in reply to: Mystery of water based pomades - AMA (ask me anything)

    Hi.
    You can contact me via armen.darky@gmail.com if you want. 

  • @Perry Well, I called it. The thing is that people who write these kind of stuff are mostly low key bloggers with no education on the topic whatsoever. God help us all, hahaha. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 20, 2021 at 6:37 pm in reply to: Shampoo formulation with vegetable oil

    @Cafe33 As you can’t use salt for thickening that kind of formulation, what did you use to thicken it? Acrylates copolymer, gums? 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 20, 2021 at 6:36 pm in reply to: HIP - high internal phase emulsions. To good to be true?

    @Perry I think the answer to that has much to do with the economical aspects as well. Shiseido as brend is notorious for being high pricey, so I think part of the reason would be that. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 20, 2021 at 3:03 pm in reply to: HIP - high internal phase emulsions. To good to be true?

    This paper is actually suggesting that Shisedio indeed first formulated this kind of emulsion. Interesting. 

  • As long as you use the right amount of chelators, antioxidants and preservatives I think you gonna be just fine. :) 

  • Well, there isn’t anything specific about 21 days really. We always used 3 to 5 weeks for stability testing in my University, presumably bc to get some reproductive results in the smallest time possible.
    So, by leaving the product for 3 weeks on direct sunlight you can effectively reproduce the stability of formulation for up to 1 year, and that can be more then enough to evaluate. Or course, doing stress tests for cosmetics products is always the best way of obtaining good results for stability, but they tends to be costly and time consuming, especially for your application. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 19, 2021 at 11:55 am in reply to: Natural preservatives, the Democles sword of cosmetic science.

    If you don’t mind that would be perfect. 

  • Hello @Abdullah.

    Well, I think you already know the answer to this one. Transparent bottles of any kind tend to be worse at keeping the product stable compared to for example, medical amber glass or non-transparent airless bottles. But, what can you do providing that you really don’t have the choice?

    -Add some EDTA, BHT, mixed tocopherols and proper preservative to your formula
    -On label explicitly leave a note to keep the product away from direct sunlight
    -Use non-transparent label and make so it covers most of the transparent package (believe it or not this actually helps in a great manner) and
    -Leave the product in intented package 21 day at room temperature and on direct sunlight. Observe what happens with and without the label, with different amount of antioxidant and etc. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 18, 2021 at 10:23 pm in reply to: Shampoo formulation with vegetable oil

    @marinaartm Well, as @Fekher mentioned sodium ricinoleate and PEG-40 HCO can indeed serve as foam boosters, but they easily fail even in big ration compared to for example coco betaine, decyl glucoside or glucoside (more importantly different sulfates and oxides surfactants improve the foam greatly). If you are really adding the castor oil only for the foam, why risk it with the oiliness that regular castor oil can provide to formula?

    Foam, as mentioned before many times has nothing to do with effectiveness of shampoo but marely with the perception the user has (I do agree this matters as well) so, if you want oils as claim ingredients add them in small percentage (less then 1% combined) and leave at it. But, doing that you are reinforcing the perception of consumers that oils in shampoo do help, so hell be damned, why do that also? 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 18, 2021 at 10:14 pm in reply to: Natural preservatives, the Democles sword of cosmetic science.

    Will try again later, might be the connection was poor earlier. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 18, 2021 at 10:13 pm in reply to: Your opinion on favourite FRAGRANCE oils ????

    @Cafe33 Where can I fint the supplier for ethylene brassylate? Would love to fint that stuff. Also, can you provide me the ratio for two smells you mentioned (the first and the last) in private message, I would love to find this.
    Try some:
    eucalyptus eo. lemongrass eo. 2.2:1 and vanilla cinnamon eo. 3:1 and spearmint eo. vanilla 1.8:1. You would be surprised. Also Aqua Di Qio from NG supplier is the bomb. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 18, 2021 at 4:54 pm in reply to: Natural preservatives, the Democles sword of cosmetic science.

    I always thought that there can’t be a good cosmetic product without preservatives. Even amongst my colleagues (pharmacist, physicians, etc.) there are some (presumably more as we progress further in developing cosmetic science, ironically) who think that preservatives are just bad and should always be awoided. Heck, I just think that the general public isn’t being informed well about the use and principle of preservation, hence the problem of miss judging.
    I can’t seem to open the paper (I see it’s your personal aswell) so can you please provide me with some other link so I can read it? I am really interested. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 18, 2021 at 4:47 pm in reply to: Your opinion on favourite FRAGRANCE oils ????

    @Graillotion Oh, I apologise, haha. Not trying to be mean or anything.
    All the fragrances (apart from vanilla) are from Nature’s Garden. They sure know how to make a good fragrance.
    Also, vanilla is from Fargon in Croatia. I redeemed myself, haha.
    Also, I very much like tobacco. Just got it, man here love it apparently (Balkan). They are astonished. But you got ginger and lime as well… Works in the right proportion. Also, I have tobacco fragrance solely, so I will try it on 3:1 or 4:1 proportion with vanilla.
    @Sincityfire I use essential oil mix with fragrance all the time. It really has something special to it. Essential oils are often to much intensive, so the fragrance oils keep that notch a little bit down while providing some stable smell. Also, on the other hand fragrance oil often lack that distinctiveness so essential oils help on that accord. Chocolate blood orange? Haha. Nice choice. Try some blood orange (neroli) with mentha lemongrass and vanilla as well. You will be amazed. 

  • Svemirska_baklava

    Member
    September 17, 2021 at 11:01 pm in reply to: Mystery of water based pomades - AMA (ask me anything)

    On the other hand, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 polymer sound suprisingly interesting to use… ;) 

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