[Stanley]

@ngarayeva001
Thank you for the review!!!  Can’t use D5 -no silicones.. I did increase the amount of lexfeel and that did help.  What I am thinking is to use a silicone alternative that has the same viscosity as 250 or 350 st.

[Stanley]

@ketchito
thank you kindly for the suggestion.

[Stanley]

this is for work. i have some industry experience not with sunscreens or the other hard stuff.  Yes starting fresh was an idea of mine.  I was just trying to match the texture so the sales rep doesn’t yell at me again.

[Stanley]

---

so there is nothing wrong with using just grams and not percentages?  I am trying to figure out what to do with this besides reformulating this mess.

[Stanley]

Hello
Thank you for all the comments!!! Please excuse my new-ness on the topic.
I have very little experience working with sunscreens and have always recognize the seriousness of their formulations.  The managers are demanding I work on this project and make it like what the last chemist did.  They didn’t procedure just a list of raw materials and their quantities in GRAMS.  I am trying to figure out what is going on with this formulation.

The 3 sunscreens that I am trying to switch out with ZnO or a combo of ZnO/TIO2 are octocrylene, ethylhexylsalicylate and octylmethoxycinnamate.  The product has to work for pregnant women.  

@Pharma
What would be a better emulsifier system? I must admit my resources are limited but I can order.
When you say polymer blend are you referring to all the oils?

“Addition to my earlier post: I just realized that there’s AMP in higher amounts present. This indicates that at least some (too lazy to calculate) part of stearic acid is neutralized which makes the emulsion more likely to be o/w.”

If the stearic acid is neutralized how does that effect the system?

[Stanley]

@Bill_Toge
Thank you..i am not too familiar with ZnO products and how they look.  I have a few experiments but the texture was a little bumpy looking.  Not grainy at all.  I am having problems getting the batch to thicken like a viscous cream.  any suggestions?

[Stanley]

Okay!!!—Stability

I have made 2 Vitamin C prototypes… I put them in a 45C oven for a week as well as a RT retains (protected from light).

A week later
The RT covered retains are pretty much the same coloring as when I started.  Sample A- is a straw yellow
Sample B-is a darker straw yellow

A week later-45C oven samples 
Sample A- has gotten moderately darker from the near clear initial start.
Sample B- has gotten darker to the yellow/orange range.

Not sure how to interpet this.  Sample A maybe good for a month before it start turning yellow?

Suggestions….

[Stanley]

Use beeswax does your client have a benchmark?

[Stanley]

@Bax65
@chemicalmatt

This is still good information.  Thank you for sharing…
Since we are talking about Europe and other parts of the world….does ZnO and TiO2 have any issues or limits beyond the USA?

[Stanley]

you can do a brow gel with glycerin soap and fibers to it..

[Stanley]

@tobias
thank you so much!!! this does help alot!!!

[Stanley]

Thanks for the input… I understand sunscreens are serious.  That is why I am asking about the process especially when I was given parameters to work with.

The water is 59% and not the 89.  I made the lotion first then split in half to add the ZnO. This is where I got the paste.

[Stanley]

Not sure how to formulate with ZnO and TiO2.  Just make a nice face cream and add ZnO and TiO2 to it? Just not sure where to start on this one.

water            89%
carbomer       0.3%
HEC               0.1%
EDTA             0.1%
bg                 1.9%
almond oil     4.7%
avocado oil     3.0%
span 80-        2.0%
pelemol bid-c 0.9%
shea butter - 1.41%
steric acid-    0.9%
cetyl alcohol  2.0%
lip gms 470   0.9%
Vitamin E-     0.15%
isononyl isononoate-  0.8%
ZnO-  20%
allianz OPT-  2.80%
preservative- 1.00%

My cream looked nice but soon as I put in the ZnO it turned into paste.

[Stanley]

@chemicalmatt @MarkBroussard @Bill_Toge

Thank you for your input….. 

[Stanley]

@MarkBroussard
I love your answer… I don’t have contact with the client.  However marketing does but then they interject their thoughts….but for example… my marketing person keeps telling me they want the product clear.  I am thinking opaque vs. hazy vs. translucent vs. clear.   After much discussion them meant they didn’t want any color.  I just to make sure we are on the same page.

[Stanley]

check your inbox..

[Stanley]

@MarkBroussard
I appreciate your words.  I am being asked to reproduce a Vitamin C formulation that was at 20%.  The initial work is proving to be not reproducible and leaning toward being flawed. I have looked at different patents on the subject matter.  I am also trying to be a little innovate in thinking through other solutions.  I do expect this to turn colors quickly but I am also trying to have something viable to present. 

[Stanley]

@MarkBroussard
So trying to make a 20% serum would be not possible.  I am trying to prevent L-ascorbic acid from turning brown so quickly.  Would it be possible to use MAP at 6% and L-ascorbic acid at 14% in my serum?  I have MAP available to me right now.

[Stanley]

okay, i have made this but it keeps coming out pale yellow.  How do i get this to be colorless?  I neutralized this at the end and it stayed yellowish.

[Stanley]

thank you kindly

[Stanley]

what is ethoxydiglycol used for?

[Stanley]

To whom is your products directed to?

[Stanley]

what should the pH be of the final product. Would it be clear or hazy?

[Stanley]

Thank you!  I have remove cosmetics off machinery so I thinking some folks may have a little knowledge of the compounding area.  Do you know of a forum where I could ask these questions?

[Stanley]

@Microformulation explain that to the biz folks that want a label claim.  Other parts of the formula are there.