[Sibech]

In my opinion, there is not a whole lot of difference. They might feel slightly different (which most consumers won’t notice) - however, some are clear while others are translucent, which is what most people will notice.

[Sibech]

Unfortunately there are problems in all research-based industries, and even in academia.

One thing that I noticed in your posting was the notice that academia (or at least other areas of industry) is better off than industry was this:

“Cosmetic science often takes the approach of not asking questions for which they don’t want to know negative answers. And this is why it is not exactly rigorous science.”

Yet, very rarely negative results are published anyway, and if they are it is usually to prove a previously published article wrong. Not to mention the politics involved in publishing - not only for corporate funding but also for governmental funding.

So when it comes to being scientific in the industry,  I usually just go with what appears to be a reasonable experimental setup, usually double-blinded (so they can say it was a blinded study. Then highlight what marketers want to hear (assuming some data suggests it) and caveat so much that anyone who actually would read the internal report clearly sees the reality behind the performed study.

[Sibech]

@perry there I think you may be right, even though there is several, there are several indications (from mildly biased sources) that it reduces the visibility wrinkles with less scaling than with retinol, so who knows? - We need more independent studies to actually be certain.

By the way, the activity of Bakuchiol is described (By RK Chaudkuri CEO of Syntheon) in several articles - many of which are summarized by a chapter in “Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics” - I mean it doesn’t get more biased than that but again - who knows, they might be telling the truth?

[Sibech]

@Perry actually Bakuchiol is the name of the compound (Cas: 10309-37-2)

Bakuchiol was found in and is commercially purified from Psoralea corylifolia.

Bakuchi/Babchi Oil is indeed just the expressed oil from Psoralea corylifolia, which depending on the purification method may contain Bakuchiol.

[Sibech]

You have too low a concentration of surfactants. “SLS Liquid” is likely at 30% concentration (check your documentation/supplier) which would yield an approximately 3.5% concentration of actual SLS.

CAPB is also likely at 30% and therefore in total 3% in your formula.

Increase the active matter (actual surfactant concentration) to get a thicker product.

[Sibech]

@dtdang You can thank the Esters dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl isostearate and the Silica in that formulation for that feeling. The many oils are (hopefully) there at a very low concentration and added only as a scent.

as for your question “which is the emulsifier”: PPG-15 Stearyl Ether & Aristoflex AVC is probably what’s keeping it together possibly with added thanks to the silica.

[Sibech]

@Royalbre That is very very cheap, so cheap in fact that I would either: A) Find another one or Get the contract read through by another chemist to check for what is NOT included in that price and a lawyer to make sure it is enforcable.

[Sibech]

@MarkBroussard They probably do extraction in the triglycerides too. But why would they add any triglycerides anyway I mean that in itself is likely to cause lipid pneumonia.

[Sibech]

There is no reason for tocopheryl acetate to be included. It should contain Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Nicotine and possibly flavourings (and flavouring carriers).

Some news articles have quotes suggesting the use of VE Acetate being added as a thickener and colourant to “cut” the THC concentration, but making it seem legit.

https://www.rollingstone.com/culture/culture-news/thc-carts-vitamin-e-oil-880917/

[Sibech]

Other “Actives” from a natural source activating the TRPV1 Receptor (burning sensation from capsaicin) includes Ginger Extract/oleoresin (Gingerol, Zingerol), Pepper extract (Piperine) & Clove extract (Eugenol - allergen).

If you want a heating sensation without “actives”, then using an anhydrous polyol or PEG base would give a warming sensation (although you would have to work around the tackiness). For instance, glycerin’s enthalpy change on dissolution is negative, so when the water from the skin (or added after) is dissolving the glycerin will release a small amount of heat.

Zeolite, Magnesium Sulfate and Bentonite work the same way (heat of dissolution) when combined with water.

[Sibech]

Contamination in an anhydrous formula is unlikely, bacteria and mold won’t grow without water. 

Phenoxyethanol could be used if you want a suggestion anyway.

[Sibech]

@MarkBroussard while I partially agree it is also a question of access to information. Not everyone has a smartphone for instance. Then there is the change in formulations (let’s say removal of an allergen) which means it needs to be a batch specific lookup otherwise the website would not reflect the product composition.

[Sibech]

For partculates (including silica and surfactants) I use 3M Aura 9312A+

[Sibech]

Toxicological report on cocamidopropyl betaine (CAPB): https://www.heraproject.com/files/45-HH-E101023F-D12F-6A30-DEB0770E9BF8E4D0.pdf

TLDR; allergic contact dermatitis from CAPB is caused by impurities, not CAPB itself. Irritant contact dermatitis and diffuse irritation is dependent on the concentration (as is the case for all surfactants). Under 10% CAPB concentration shows none to mild irritation.

[Sibech]

Colormatching is pretty much a trial an error thing. But it depends on what kind of pigment you’re using. as it is a concealer you could go very green and fix it with foundation afterwards.

However;

Colored pigment - you need a small amount.

Interference pigments you usually need a higher amount of (but in my opinion give a more natural hue).

Just don’t forget the titanium dioxide to give a base white which also allows you to use much less iron oxide while increasing the payoff.

[Sibech]

Without knowing what they have in their “preservative” my guess would be glycols and an acid. Waiting for a month could be to  1) Improve the story or 2) allow for some of the water in the melon to be drawn out of the fruit and partially replaced by the glycols.

[Sibech]

The only way to have them sterilized in the bottle with no preservatives is a perfect closure system, clean bottles and gamma radiation. And once opened, well then it’s bugfood.

[Sibech]

@Mallow631 Just make sure there is water in the formulation. It is a feature inherit in more or less all humectants. But at the same time, we do perspire water all the time and is not usually something that you need to consider. It was intended more as an interesting tidbit.

[Sibech]

@Aziz If you look at Poucher’s book again, then you will notice 2 things.

1. The panthenol subsection is the only one without a reference (I happen to own a copy of the book and yes, every other subsection of the “Functional Ingredients” in 9.4.3 has at least one reference, patent).
2. It Reads: Vitamin B is essential for normal hair growth and it has been found that use of panthenol in hair preparations can deliver vitamin B5 to the hair through the oxidation to the acid. Panthenol has also been shown to improve body and texture of hair together with a moisturizing capability.
   

Hair is just keratin, it is not living tissue. Like Pharma correctly points out for this oxidation from alcohol to acid, living cells are required. The hair cannot perform such a conversion. Now arguably the follicle and skin may be able to convert this - but how long do you usually keep shampoo in your hair and on your scalp? Panthenol is water soluble and you rinse it right away.

@Mallow631, when formulated correctly dexpanthenol (D-Panthenol), may penetrate the skin where it can be used for a “skin conditioning” claim.

Panthenol is a humectant, it is hygroscopic (attracts water) and can keep water on your skin or draw it out of your skin, depending on the formula. It can also bring moisture to your hair, but to get shine and disentanglement cationic polymers are the way to go.

You also mentioned earlier that you read cetyl alcohol is an emulsifier, but it is more of an emulsion stabilizer, it can indeed thicken emulsions but does not really function as an emulsifier in its own right.

Often you will see it used in conditioners to give that slick yet somewhat heavy feel customers expect.

Edit: Removal of large spaces in the text.

[Sibech]

ULprospecter will only let you register when you work at a company related to the products and services in their database - are you currently employed within the personal care industry?

[Sibech]

Well, that is part of it, another thing is the “backfire effect”(https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs11109-010-9112-2) which essentially is the tendency to increase belief in your current incorrect understanding when shown facts disagreeing with your bias.

Granted this study related to political opinions, but the tendency persists.

pdf can be found here: http://www.uky.edu/AS/PoliSci/Peffley/pdf/nyhan-reifler%202007%20When%20Predictions%20Fail.pdf

[Sibech]

For moisturization purposes, we usually go with both TEWL measurements in conjunction with dermal conductance measured over time.

Cleansing has usually been a comparative washing with relevant coloured products as the reference.

[Sibech]

Did the product get any sun-exposure? that could increase evaporation in the packaging.

[Sibech]

Benzyl alcohol may be added as a preservative, if the premix you found is sold in the EU, then the benzyl alcohol may be on the ingredient list due to the content of bitter almond oil, as there is about 1-2% benzyl alcohol present in bitter almond oil.

edit: capitalization

[Sibech]

When you have a formulation that allows for absorption of the panthenol, then D panthenol would be better for skincare as this isomer is the one our cells convert to pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), as the racemic (DL) mixture contains both active and inactive panthenol.

however for haircare there is no such need as hair is essentially dead keratin and the cheaper option is better when used only as a moisturizer.

edit: Pharma beat me to it - but here is an article instead https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/09546634.2017.1325310