[Rimshah]

@gordof Thank you so much for your response. It is really helpful for me. 🙂

[Rimshah]

@Abdullah Thank you so much. I will post my query in separate post now.

[Rimshah]

Hello formulators! I am unable to make a new post so I am asking under my old post. I would like to add some plant extracts in my niacinamide serum. I just want to add those which doesn’t increase sun sensitivity. I am unable to find information online. If you know any website then please let me know. I am going to share the picture here, if you have information about it, you can educate me. Thanks!

[Rimshah]

@ketchito Thanks for your response. Niacinamide is also an antioxidant, it will protect the botanical extracts right?

Moreover, zinc PCA and sodium hyaluronate can be used together without compromising the efficiency of zinc PCA? 

[Rimshah]

I have one more question, please answer. My serum has a number of botanical extracts which are antioxidants like olive leaf extract, licorice extract, rosemary extract etc. Is it essential to use sunblock with this also as it’s mandatory with vitamin C, retinol and acids? Thanks!

[Rimshah]

Thanks everyone for your response  

[Rimshah]

Thanks a lot everyone for your replies. This discussion is super helpful for me. Your help is greatly appreciated.

[Rimshah]

Thanks a lot @pattsi and @MarkBroussard for your valuable suggestions. I will start my brand in future with a unique formula when I will have resources. 

[Rimshah]

@pattsi Thank you for your suggestion. I am going to start my own brand. 

@MarkBroussard I have read about it recently. L’Oréal sued drunk elephant in 2018. What I read now is that loreal holds patent of pH 2.5-3.0, means no one can use this pH to formulate vitamin CE Ferulic acid serum. So, I am thinking to formulate my product at 3.1 pH, what do you say? 

New Ingredient list they offered is:

Water , Ethoxydiglycol , 15 % L’Ascorbic Acid , Dipropylene Glycol , Glycerin , 1 % Alpha Tocopherol , polysorbate 80 , Phenoxyethanol , arbutin , Sodium Hydroxide , sodium hyaluronate , 0.5 % Ferulic Acid , DL - Panthenol 

Please let me know it would be legal to formulate product with this ingredient list and pH 3.1?

Thanks in advance!

[Rimshah]

@jemolian Thanks a lot for highlighting this point. I didn’t know that this formula is copy. I just approached the company in China for vitamin C serum and they gave me this formula with the price. 

I don’t know about the formulations, as short on budget I can buy the company products with private label only. Could you recommend any company? Thank you!

[Rimshah]

To conclude, oleic acid oils should be completely avoided or use very minimal amount with high amount of linoleic acid oils in skincare products. 

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge.

[Rimshah]

Okay got it .. thank you so much

[Rimshah]

85g distilled water

2g glycerin

6g niacinamide 

1g Shea butter

1g Silica

1g isoamyl laurate/lexfeel n50

0.5g carbomer or xanthun gum

1.5g K712 preservative

Kindly review this final product. 

[Rimshah]

Oh new information for me, thank you

[Rimshah]

I have silica in my mind also. I am wondering if there is such good alternative, otherwise I would use it. 1g silica would work work? Colloidal silicon dioxide and Powdered silica would give the same result?

I have seen products using kaolin and oats kernel flour, these are just market labels or literally absorbs skin oil?

[Rimshah]

I know there is not any scientific proof which shows dimethicone is pore clogging. As it measures 1 on comedogenic scale, I want to avoid it. 

[Rimshah]

Okay, I will use sepigel if I find. I don’t wanna use dimethicone as it clogs pores, I am making moisturizer for acne prone skin. 

I am thinking to use Shea butter as an occlusive with Amazonian clay to absorb the oil. What do you think if I use 1g each? 

[Rimshah]

I prefer natural ingredients, but if there is any non toxic synthetic ingredient is available which is more beneficial than natural one I will go for it.

Here is the ingredients list:
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Dimethicone/vinyl Dimenticone Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethaqnol, Polyacrylamide, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Dimethiconol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Chlorphenesin, Carbomer, Laureth-7, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Fragrance, C12-14 Pareth -12, Sodium Hydroxide, Blue 1

[Rimshah]

I don’t have any scientific proof, I was talking out of my experience only. I didn’t know it wouldn’t work for everyone, thanks for informing.

What do you think niacinamide alone will work great or addition of allantoin will make a huge difference? 

Oh I got it now, would use glycerin.

There are oil free moisturizers or gels available in the market for oily skin. For example, neutrogena hydro boost water gel. I guess this product contains dimethicone as an occlusive and it also has carbomer. 

Should I use 2% carbomer instead of xanthun gum to make gel form? And Do you know any natural or non-toxic synthetic occlusive to add because I don’t want to skip it?

[Rimshah]

@Jon_R Thanks a ton!

[Rimshah]

I was using hyaluronic as a humectant. I had glycerin in my mind also but thought it may work well as many moisturizers include this ingredient instead of glycerin, specially anti-aging serums. Thanks for your suggestion I will use glycerine instead. 

Okay I would skip Panthenol too, I don’t want to add zero-benefit ingredients. But I am curious, aloevera and Panthenol provide benefit individually, why these are not beneficial in this formula? 

As Occlusive builds a layer on the skin and prevents dehydration which may occur due to humectant in dry climate, so I need to use it my formula. Your suggestion will be greatly appreciated.

I was adding allantoin to remove blemishes only, I think niacinamide would work fine so I may slip it also.

I was planning to make a Moisturizer instead of a serum that’s why I added huge amount of it. But 
I assume due to absence of carrier oils it’s not possible. I am fine with the serum also so I will reduce the amount of xanthun gum, thanks. 

Yeah you guessed right, I want to make a natural product. 

[Rimshah]

I got it now, Thanks

[Rimshah]

Haha, no problem. I will experiment myself :smiley:

[Rimshah]

Sure, do share your results with me

[Rimshah]

If it spreads well, benefit of both will be same?